Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973 Struttin’ in the Moonlight: Matt Santisi & Michael Bridge, 2023 |
Page Views: | 11,747 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Mike fenice on May 24, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
Description
This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).
P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.
P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.
Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:
P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40’.
Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.
Struttin’ in the Moonlight: A direct variation to pitch 2. Pull past the bolt and gear up the horizontal. Instead of traversing hard left go straight up using crimps and side pulls. A big reach gets you to the mega jug. A blue camalot can be placed out left to protect the final move gaining the ledge. Finish on Moonlight. 5.11a, 90’.
Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.
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