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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Keep on Struttin' 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P1: Dick Williams & Dave Loeks, 1973 P2: Dave Loeks & Walter Bauman, 1973
Page Views: 4,020
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 24, 2006
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Adam pulling the crux on pitch 3(5.9) of Keep on S...

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Description 

This is Gunks must-do, especially for climbers breaking into the grade (but see comments below - Admin.).

P1: The number of variations you can climb to the GT are endless, but this one is well worth doing. Start 30' left of Moonlight. Climb straight up and past a small right-facing flake to some face holds. Move a bit right on the face to hit the belay tree (gear is thin here so watch your step). 5.8, 160'.

P2: Walk right 10' and climb the orange face to a pocket, then straight up past a small overhang to a stance. Diagonal up and left (5.7, PG-R) to a bolt with a good stance, traverse left into the notch at a fixed pin in the roof. Pull the roof on strenuous holds and belay below the right-facing corner. 5.9, 50'.

Use long runners if you combine the next pitch:

P3: Move up the obvious corner to the overhang and step right, 5.9, 40'.

Pitches 2 & 3 can be combined if you are careful about rope drag in the beginning.


Protection 

A light single rack will do



Photos of Keep on Struttin' Slideshow Add Photo
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Strut...
A wider view.
A wider view.
really fun route but kind of soft for 5.9
really fun route but kind of soft for 5.9
Mix on Keep on Struttin 11/09
Mix on Keep on Struttin 11/09
Adam pulls past the crux on pitch 2(5.9) of Keep on Struttin(5.9)
Adam pulls past the crux on pitch 2(5.9) of Keep o...
Gripped
Gripped
steep
steep
Starting the second pitch.... awesome!
Starting the second pitch.... awesome!
eek steeper
eek steeper
Lucander engaging the bolted crux section on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.
Lucander engaging the bolted crux section on p. 2 ...
Tricia below the crux.
Tricia below the crux.
Adam starting up the fun stemming corner on pitch 3(5.9) of Keep on Struttin(5.9)
Adam starting up the fun stemming corner on pitch ...
it's starting to slab out now
it's starting to slab out now
Comments on Keep on Struttin' Add Comment
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By blah blah
May 25, 2006

Breaking into the grade? What grade are you talking about? This climb is (a) somewhat spicy and (b) pumpy as hell...

If you want to break into the 9+ grade, go throw yourself at Bonnie's Roof Direct or Beatle Brow Bulge or Obstacle Delusion... better protected climbs in my opinion... it's been awhile since I have climbed this, but I found it quite hard...

By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2006

Obstacle Delusion is 10b and Bonnie's Roof Direct is a one-move wonder. Not to mention Bonnie's is completely different climbing then Keep on Struttin'. Both climbs protect very well and are safe.

By L. Hamilton
Nov 27, 2006

It's a fine route, although not one I'd recommend for "breaking into the grade." It starts interesting right off the ledge, and there are only a few placements before the bolt at 30'. The move above the bolt is tricky for 5.9, and there's no fixed pro (as of 11/2006) on the strenuous traverse -- you have to hang on to place a cam.

The third pitch is not sustained, but its last moves give one more crux.

By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

THE 5.9 if you ask me. First pitch is fun and long, second pitch throws more at you in 50 feet than most any other climb, and the last move is a stinger!

By Pawel
From: NJ
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

P2-P3 linkup makes for a super-classic climb that reminds me of Arrow only harder: steep roofy section followed by fun technical climbing in beautiful white rock and a fun memorable finishing move.

Didn't feel the middle section of P2 was very run out (purple C4 sits well after the first little roof) though a bit strenuous to place gear.