This route wanders some but it is a worthwhile Toprope for beginners, especially for guides looking for easy climbs for clients.
Start on the ledge 4 ft up, go to lef arete, pull a couple of slab moves o the big undercling, then deadpoint up to ledge, mantle ledge, traverse into corner and finish to the top.
Just to the left of Jumping Jack Flash.
No pro until 15 ft, then spaced pro to anchors.
|Comments on Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13
If your partner wants to lead it after you, they'll be in for a treat when they go to clean the last piece. We placed a piece at the bottom of the far right of the North Carolina-shaped flake and cleaning it meant I had to go back to the far right of this wandering route. This meant I got to do the big swing into the opening under the roof!
The guidebook gives this route 0 stars, but I thought it flowed nicely and was a pleasant and easy climb. It was a great time killer while we waited for New Yosemite to open up.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Jun 5, 2012
If you stay on the ledge and head straight up instead of traversing over it's more of 10a..ish..
The variation was a lot more fun than I thought it was going to be. No prize winner though.