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Keelhaul
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 859 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Arie on Jul 27, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A good way to dispose of a trouble maker. In the middle of nowhere, but quality- considering this is on a common descent route and an obvious line, I wouldnt doubt if this had been climbed before (see Glens Axis of Evil Comment, but it looked too good not to take a swing at. A little short, but quality thin fingers, thin liebacking, and a detaching flake make this a fun end to a Tingeys Torture-ous day.
Start off a sandy ledge below (east) the Axis of Evil Arete and climb the obvious thin crack. The first 20 feet or so are positive, but the following section is slightly more insecure, gear less trustworthy, and there is plenty of exfoliating lichen and granite. A good steel brushing would be warranted if this were ever to get traffic. Finish off and belay off a pesky tree or manky gear up in the nook.
If youve got previous ascent info send me a PM and Ill update it.
Start off a sandy ledge below (east) the Axis of Evil Arete and climb the obvious thin crack. The first 20 feet or so are positive, but the following section is slightly more insecure, gear less trustworthy, and there is plenty of exfoliating lichen and granite. A good steel brushing would be warranted if this were ever to get traffic. Finish off and belay off a pesky tree or manky gear up in the nook.
If youve got previous ascent info send me a PM and Ill update it.
Location
These climbs are definitely worth the hike!
Climb to the top of Tingey's Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right.
If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs. (This is the fastest way if you only have time to do these climbs.) Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west.
The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.
Climb to the top of Tingey's Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right.
If you come in from the Peeler side/Pawn trail, just cut over when you're about even with the climbs. (This is the fastest way if you only have time to do these climbs.) Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west.
The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.
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