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This route is the perfect introduction to limestone trad, such as one might expect on Yamnuska. The rock quality is moderate to high, the protection is very good by Rockies standards. Commitment is low as any pitch can be rapped with two ropes. As well all Rockies trad route, the use of double rope techniques is highly encouraged.
Pitch 1 (5.5 - 20m): Trend up and right on the slab to a bolt, then straight up past 1 more bolt and a possibly nut placement to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.6 - 30m): Traverse left, up and back right around an overhang. Follow the left facing corner protected by fixed pins (possible small nut backups are advisable). A few smearing moves lead to a large ledge with a bolt anchor.
Pitch 2a (4th - 5m): Move the belay to the fixed station left side of the ledge. Watch fow loose rock. This station is shared by Grey Waves.
Pitch 3 (5.6 - 30m): The 'keel haul pitch'. Traverse left until it's possible to comfortably move. Protection is a mix of fixed pins and bolts. Proceed up and left on the rough slab to a belay station. Rope drag is a serious problem on this pitch, bring plenty of long slings.
Pitch 4 (5.5 - 40m): Go straight up the slab with good but sparse protection. Come up between two large trees to a bolt belay.
Pitch 5 (5.5+ - 30m): Go straight up the slab crossing two vertical sections protected by fixed pins (very small cams as back up) to the top out. Bolts at the top out point.
Descent: Walk right along the top of the cliff and then east down to the river gully between kid and nanny goat buttress. Walk down the gully crossing to the north side of the creek (icy in early season). Scramble down 4th class slab to a trail acorss the creek and back to the base of the cliffs.
Follow the cliff band to the south watching for the letters KHW and an arrow written on the wall. This is the start of the route.
Mixed trad, bolts and fixed pins; bring a light rack: 1 nut set, Cams to #1 or #2 camalot.
By Tom Gnyra
Apr 16, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
not PG13, lots of good gear and bolts where there is none. Single rack tops.