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 ADVANCED
Area 37
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Park 
A37 Crack Route 
Bag of Sand 
Balance of Power, The 
Bizarre Ritual 
Bolting The Molting 
Branching Out 
Cherry Pickin' 
Cyclic Loader 
Ergo 
Fatigue 
Frosted Mini Wheats 
InBetween, The 
Keardo 
Leprosy 
Los Gastones 
Mini Wheats 
Sending Data 
Stewed Prune 

Keardo 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 63'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Kear(?)
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 4, 2011
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Description 

As the hardest route at Area 37, Keardo is likely the most overlooked route at the crag. (I know I passed underneath it countless times before giving it go.) If the anchors were just below the crux bulge at the top this route would be 10+/11- and see a great deal of ascents--it's a fun line with unique movement down low to a tough, pumpy and sharp crux bulge past the last bolt.

The lower portion of the route involves sneaky moves between nice, positive holds past the first five bolts to a good rest. Get psyched and ready to bust out committing and difficult moves through the bulge above. Clip the last bolt next to the shallow groove and gun it up into the sharp finger crack. Crank hard as you leave the mental safety of the last bolt up a few moves to better holds above and the anchors.


Location 

Between The InBetween and Cherry Pickin'. The crux groove and bulge above is a good landmark.


Protection 

Six bolts to a two bolt anchor



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