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KB Capers 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Okel, Dan Perry 1981
Page Views: 1,606
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Jason approaching the crux roof of KB Capers.

Description 

Lots of great climbing w/ a short crux.
P1: Many options: The original follows P1 of Boardwalk for about 30-40', then cuts hard right and pulls around the arete underneath a roof. Continue climbing on or near the arete until you reach a good belay ledge beneath a right-facing corner. Build a belay here. (look at the guidebook for alternatives to this pitch) 70', 5.9
p2: Climb the corner to a roof (crux). Pull the roof by some contortion, and follow easier ground to the top. 70', 5.10a.


Location 

The route follows the right side of a prominent arete, just to the right of Boardwalk. Rap from the anchors atop Boardwalk.


Protection 

to 2".



Photos of KB Capers Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down after pulling the very fun crux move on P2 of KB Capers, 5.10.
Looking down after pulling the very fun crux move ...
I was excited after the crux, so I took a pic
I was excited after the crux, so I took a pic
Exchanging gear at the P1 belay for KB.
Exchanging gear at the P1 belay for KB.
SF on the Arete on pitch 1. Oct. 09
SF on the Arete on pitch 1. Oct. 09
KB Capers P2, 5.10a.
KB Capers P2, 5.10a.
Comments on KB Capers Add Comment
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By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 4, 2011

First pitch is a little weird because there are so many options, but with a little creativity its not bad. Second pitch is definitely the gem of the route! Dihedral to mystery move are nothing but pure fun! Be weary of rope directional at the natural anchor at the top, some sharp edges are lurking.

By Jonathan Dull
From: NC High County
Apr 16, 2014

Mike's right, we ended up above the Hindu Kush bolted anchors and had to traverse left and up a bit to get below the second pitch. The second pitch is super classic and well protected, a #2 Camalot protects the crux perfectly.