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Kaymoor
Uplift Double Pulley with Becket

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Singing Rock Crux Climbing Harness

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Butcher's Branch 
Fire and Ice Buttress 
First Buttress 
Glory Hole, The 
Rico Suave Buttress 
Seven Eleven Wall 
Upper Kaymoor 
White Wall 

Kaymoor 


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Lat, Long: 38.1401, -80.9201 Map
Page Views: 73,727. Good page?   
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007

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Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Thunderstorm
86° | 63°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 46°
Chance of Rain
59° | 39°
Partly Cloudy
64° | 41°
Clear
66° | 48°

Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here


Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)

or:

Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kaymoor:
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+     Sport, 90 feet   Butcher's Branch
Rico Sauve   5.10a     Sport, 80 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Fairtracer   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c     Sport, 90 feet   Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Moon Child Posse   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   White Wall
Tony the Tiger   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Mo' Betta' Holds   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Butcher's Branch
Out of the Bag   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
Magnatude   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   First Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Butcher's Branch
Yowsah   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Glory Hole
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
Dining at the Altar   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   White Wall
Thunderstruck   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   White Wall
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d     Sport   The Glory Hole
Devil Doll   5.12d     Sport   The Glory Hole
Slash and Burn   5.12d     Sport, 80 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Blood Raid   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Glory Hole
Browse More Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Russ Clune on the crux dyno of "Fuel Injector".

Fuel Injector 5.13b  WV : New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
The big daddy of Kaymoor. Unrepeated for years after the first ascent, this route now becoming a fairly popular testpiece. Up the reachy slab, cop a rest and launch into the violent crux bit....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV