Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community

Select Area...
Butcher's Branch 
Fire and Ice Buttress 
First Buttress 
Glory Hole, The 
Rico Suave Buttress 
Seven Eleven Wall 
Upper Kaymoor 
White Wall 

Kaymoor Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.046, -81.06841 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 54,405
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007

64° | 49°

62° | 36°

60° | 37°

65° | 47°

61° | 46°

58° | 45°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here

Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)


Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

83 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Kaymoor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kaymoor:
Flight of the Gumby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Butcher's Branch
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Fairtracer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
The Shining   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   White Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Seven Eleven Wall
Tony the Tiger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Out of the Bag   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Butcher's Branch
Preparation H   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Rico Suave Buttress
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rico Suave Buttress
Thunderstruck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wall
Pettifogger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   White Wall
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Glory Hole
Slash and Burn   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sanctified   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Devil Doll   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   The Glory Hole
Blood Raid   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Glory Hole
Fuel Injector   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael Levato on Flight of the Gumbie. Photo by J...

Flight of the Gumby 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Butcher's Branch
This climb starts on the right wall of the obvious huge left facing corner of Butcher's branch. Grab some jugs right off the ground and muscle your way up to better holds moving toward the arete as you go. About halfway up you'll traverse to the right side of the arete utilizing a small ledge. Follow the bolts up as the moves get more balance and sequence dependent.Classic climb that usually has a little line. A full-value route....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Kaymoor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!