Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.
Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.
Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here
By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)
Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do
Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.
71 Total Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Kaymoor
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kaymoor:
Featured Route For Kaymoor
Blood Raid 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : The Glory Hole
A classic Doug Reed route, Blood Raid is one of the finest routes of it's grade at the new. Begin 10 ft. right of Lactic starting on easy moves to gain a ledge below the first of a series of horizontal roofs. Start cruising out the roof on a beautiful pancake flake eventually pulling out onto the face on crimps. Crank up the steep face and pull the final roof making a big move up to a good hold. Keep it together and clip the chain anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.
I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:
Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)
When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.