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Kaymoor

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Kaymoor  


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Location: 38.046, -81.06841 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
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Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...

Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here

Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)

or:

Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',5],['5.10',18],['5.11',21],['5.12',26],['5.13',8],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kaymoor:
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Butcher's Branch
Rico Suave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
The Green Piece   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
Fairtracer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Seven Eleven Wall
Tony the Tiger   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Butcher's Branch
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Seven Eleven Wall
Out of the Bag   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Rico Suave Buttress
Preparation H   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   Rico Suave Buttress
Dining at the Altar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   White Wall
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Rico Suave Buttress
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Butcher's Branch
Thunderstruck   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wall
Pettifogger   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   White Wall
Devil Doll   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   The Glory Hole
Lactic Acid Bath   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   The Glory Hole
Slash and Burn   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Sanctified   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   First Buttress
Blood Raid   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Glory Hole
Fuel Injector   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 80'   Seven Eleven Wall
Browse More Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Big moves, big air

Skull Fuck 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole
For being among the easiest of the routes at the glory hole, this rig presents quite the series of challenges. Start off by climbing on a less than ideal rock-quality face, making your way around the right side of a large projecting tooth. Hunker down in an awkward position right below the roof to get ready for the business. Reach up and grab hold of a large flake with sloping jugs. Work all the way out to the lip of the roof and make a big move out right to a slopey crimp. Most people use the p...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Kaymoor Add Comment
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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 11, 2010
For historical purposes and future guidebook authors, I am adding this information at this time about Upper Kaymoor.

I established two routes here in 1997. They may be found by walking east from the Glory Hole around the corner and continuing for another 100 yards or so until you come to a tall and fairly clean wall. Just right of here is a left-facing dihedral and two decent 70 foot routes are just right of the dihedral. Left to right:

Full Moon Fever 10b/c (6 bolts)
Meteor Shower 11b (7 bolts)

When I was climbing there in the 1990's, there were other route possibilities nearby and several mixed routes further east along this wall.
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