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Blind Faith 
Kauk-kulator 
North Face, The 
Notch Route, The 

Kauk-kulator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 82'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ron Kauk, John Yablonsky, 1975
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Alexey on Aug 13, 2012
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  • Description 

    Amazing splitter, very aesthetic line. It is overhanging, dry in light rain and hard work for every feet of it 82 ft length.
    Climb started from big ledge( approach from right)
    crux first 3 moves passing fingers, off-fingers and super-tight hands - to good hand jam.
    Than dream hands ( yellow cam size) .
    Than wide pod 4-4.5" inches wide and about two body length , which can be crux for some ( rated 10c)
    If you do levitation with your right knee above left ( right side in) it can be right rating.. My knee is not big , but it was not in, I did more like calf lock and hands stacks.
    After the ow pod climbing continue about 20 more feet of 5.9-5.10


    Location 

    same approach as for Blind Faith. just before the ledge on West wall one can see perfect splitter. Approach base of the climb from right surmounting big ledge


    Protection 

    single from yellow alien to #5 camelot.
    3#2 camelots

    Plus you need some gear for belayer anchor (#3, #1, 0.75)



    Comments on Kauk-kulator Add Comment
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    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Aug 13, 2012

    some ST discussion about this route:
    www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=443222&msg=44>>>