Kauk-kulator  5.11c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 82 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Ron Kauk, John Yablonsky, 1975 Submitted By:  Alexey on Aug 13, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2012 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice. Beginning March 1, 2012: Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes "Super Nova" and extends west to all climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum. The "Jungle Gym" area remains open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff. See the following website for more info: www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Amazing splitter, very aesthetic line. It is overhanging, dry in light rain and hard work for every feet of it 82 ft length.
Climb started from big ledge( approach from right)
crux first 3 moves passing fingers, off-fingers and super-tight hands - to good hand jam.
Than dream hands ( yellow cam size) .
Than wide pod 4-4.5" inches wide and about two body length , which can be crux for some ( rated 10c)
If you do levitation with your right knee above left ( right side in) it can be right rating.. My knee is not big , but it was not in, I did more like calf lock and hands stacks.
After the ow pod climbing continue about 20 more feet of 5.9-5.10

Location 

same approach as for Blind Faith. just before the ledge on West wall one can see perfect splitter. Approach base of the climb from right surmounting big ledge

Protection 

single from yellow alien to #5 camelot.
3#2 camelots

Plus you need some gear for belayer anchor (#3, #1, 0.75)