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Mossy Wall
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28 year engagement S 
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Stain, The S 

Katrina 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Myrick
Season: year round
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: Adam Leedy on Sep 10, 2012

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Description 

Sure to become a North Shore classic.
Start on side-pull tufas with a small sapling at face height. Climb through friable hollow rock to the first bolt and the sandy ledge. Continue straight up through excellent pockets and a thin edge to the tufas. Some interesting features here including a pocket with a mono-suitcase handle. The crux comes at the top of the tufas, making a left hand dead-point to a large pocket off of two thin slopey crimps. Juggy pockets to the finish after that.

Location 

Dead center of the wall. Look for the tufas halfway up. Left of the obvious cave of Mossatopia.

Protection 

5 bolts


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By Adam Leedy
From: Austin, TX
Sep 10, 2012

Sent this second go and it really is a fantastic climb.
That said, the consensus at the crag was that this will either get harder as it cleans up and holds break (making it a solid 12a) or will be down-graded to 11d in future prints of the book.
By BrianLee
From: Austin, Texas
Jul 9, 2014

Regardless of the grade, this is a great route with a variety of holds.
By jjjjjjjjjj
Oct 30, 2015

It's hard to call this route a 5.12a, I worked just as hard on this as I did Mossatopia.

edit: the updated guidebook has downgraded this route to 5.11d

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