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Mike Amato starting up Kate Moss. The climbing is...
This route lies on the left-side of the rock, just left of "Consilence". This is a long pitch and a 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground...Eds. a 70 doesn't get you to the ground either. Tie a knot in the end of the rope and have your belayer walk up and left so you can reach the ground. Or trail a rope and rappel off. Nice face and slab climbing is the highlight of this route. There is a fair amount of moss on the route, so those who don't like a little dirt might want to stay away. The route has a alpine feel and with more ascents will get cleaner. A nice warm-up for the the harder routes on this wall.
Fifteen bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. A 60 or 70 meter rope will not get you to the ground. Be careful!!!
BETA PHOTO: Kate Moss
James at the anchor.
Marga Powell moving left into the crux section hal...
Starting the moves at the diagonal finger crack. I...
Finshing the moves at the diagonal finger crack.
High up on the last difficult moves.
Mike R high on the no-longer-mossy route. The clea...
Changing into dry shoes for an early season ascent...
Low on the route.
BETA PHOTO: Too early in the season? We could see people with...
Nice on a hot day with no snow!
Looking down the route.
Elizabeth on Kate Moss.
|By Kirk Miller|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 7, 2004
What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long.
|By Greg Hand|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2004
I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one.
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2004
Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch!
|By S. Kimball|
Jun 27, 2005
Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2007
Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent!
|By Brendan Leonard|
From: Denver, Hollarado
May 30, 2008
I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance.
Sep 1, 2008
Excellent 5.8 or maybe 5.9 climbing with good bolting, not too close together and good clipping stances. A very nice, long pitch with great climbing. 70m just gets you off, so pay attention.
Sep 28, 2008
A very good and long pitch. And a good warm up for the other great climbs here. It seems that this area is somewhat overlooked as the climbs are excellent and the competition for routes is nil. There is a quick link on the 3rd bolt about 30 feet up which allows one to rappel from the anchors and then pull the rope and rap again from the 3rd bolt. It looked like a much better set up for descending could easily be set up by putting a double anchor 3 bolts down from the top and then extending the upper 3 bolts into another 60 meter pitch. Curious since the descent takes away from the quality of the route.