Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Katahdin

Select Area...
All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas  
Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes 
Klondike Pond  
Little North Basin 
North Basin  
Northwest Basin 

Katahdin Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,260'
Location: 45.9045, -68.9239 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,383
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: A view of the North Basin from the Chimney Pond Tr...

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

The Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is Mt. Katahdin at 5260ft.

There are many fifth-class multi-pitch climbs that ascend this peak and the various other peaks around it.

There are even more ice/mixed winter time routes up this mountain.

peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=6...

Getting There 

To get to the mountain follow the Appalachain Trail!
Katahdin is just north of Millinocket, ME, in Baxter State Park. There are detailed directions and insructions for winter climbing on the state park web site: baxterstateparkauthority.com/ The park is awesome in the winter and offers full bore, hard alpine climbing as well as shorter, more friendly ice climbs. Expect to spend two days coming in and out as you are required to stay at the Roaring Brook Campground on your first and last night in the park.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 13.8 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',5],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Katahdin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Katahdin:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000'   All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
Waterfall Gully   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 1000'   All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
The Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow     Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II   All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
Pamola IV Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 11 pitches   Chimney Pond ("South") Basi...
The Armadillo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Grade IV   Chimney Pond ("South") Basi...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Katahdin

Featured Route For Katahdin
Rock Climbing Photo: The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...

The Chimney 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2 Mod. Snow  ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi...
A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Katahdin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Katahdin viewed from Chimney Pond on a cold winter...
Katahdin viewed from Chimney Pond on a cold winter...
Rock Climbing Photo: Armadillo, Flatiron, Black Gullies, Diamond, Cathe...
BETA PHOTO: Armadillo, Flatiron, Black Gullies, Diamond, Cathe...
Rock Climbing Photo: The famous Knife Edge enshrouded in clouds.  This ...
The famous Knife Edge enshrouded in clouds. This ...
Rock Climbing Photo: JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond.  Above c...
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out at the South Basin from near the top o...
Looking out at the South Basin from near the top o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks like the Moose might be interested in climbi...
Looks like the Moose might be interested in climbi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Armadillo, the Flatiron, the approach and the ...
The Armadillo, the Flatiron, the approach and the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Flatiron (5.7) I haven't climbed it so I can't...
The Flatiron (5.7) I haven't climbed it so I can't...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tabor wall of Katahdin's north basin.
BETA PHOTO: The Tabor wall of Katahdin's north basin.
Rock Climbing Photo: How Baxter State Park Came to Be
How Baxter State Park Came to Be
Rock Climbing Photo: Cathedrals
BETA PHOTO: Cathedrals
Rock Climbing Photo: The Armadillo (5.7)
The Armadillo (5.7)
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back down to Chimney pond and out the vall...
Looking back down to Chimney pond and out the vall...

Comments on Katahdin Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Apr 28, 2007
In the summer the park rangers will hand out a "Technical Rock Climbing At Katahdin" paper which has general information (basic route descriptions with grades that are not all that helpful.) There is also an informal guide book with photographs and drawn lines of the routes along with descriptions from many of the first ascentionist. Be prepared to show your gear and lay out your intentions to the ranger on duty, who may or may not know something about climbing and may or may not be polite and respectful.
By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
Feb 17, 2013
On a clear day with little wind the south basin makes for some excellent yodeling.

I would love to see more information on the North Basin.
By burlap submariner
Feb 18, 2013
ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself.
By ntableman
Sep 11, 2013
I'd like to hear more info on the Flatiron route. I have been in and out of the park for 35+ years in all season, even snowboarding down off the second cathedral way way back one winter, worked trail crew some, etc... and only recently started to technical climb on Katahdin. We did what we think is Flatiron route - trying to interpret some handwritten notes from the "bible" at the Ranger's station...Anyone have any route notes on this one they want to share?

The bottom line, for those interested, is that the park is remote to begin with and then you are remote while climbing. For people who think the rangers are being stiff, they don't know you from adam, and they are doing their jobs to keep you safe. The part can be really nepotistic, find someone who they know to take you in and then you are golden. It isn't that hard, there are a lot of climbers in NE who know the park...

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!