|The Dark Side
|Type: ||Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Page Views: ||350|
|Submitted By: ||Anonymous Coward on Sep 17, 2005|
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This is the route that climbs the prow left of Teenage Wristband, and right of the popular route formerly known as Box Lunch (now called [something] different in the Knapp guide).
This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.
I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.
The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.
7 or 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.