Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Trashcan Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-1 T 
B-2 T 
B-3 T 
Baby-Point-Five T 
Bimbo T 
Black Eye T 
Bloodymir T 
Cranny T 
Eschar T 
Eyesore T 
Eyestrain T 
History TR 
Karpkwitz T 
Profundity T 
Simpatico T 
Tiptoe T 
Trough, The T 
Tulip T 
Walkway T 

Karpkwitz 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,557
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climber with entirely too much gear for this climb...

Description 

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. Karpkwitz ascends just to the left of B-3.

This is a fun little climb. It starts with some bouldery moves down low and climbs through some patina plates to a horizontal about 2/3 of the way up. From there, you have the option of toping out using a curving crack to the left or face climbing on the right -- either way is about the same difficulty. Anchor from the same spot as for B-3. Walk off to the north.

Protection 

Small to medium pieces. You might be able to move over right into B-3 and place a larger piece. Also, it may be possible to sling a plate or two on the way up, but I can't really imagine wanting to ...


Photos of Karpkwitz Slideshow Add Photo
My daughter shows us the right way to do the upper...
My daughter shows us the right way to do the upper...
Leading Karpkwitz
BETA PHOTO: Leading Karpkwitz
My compadre "Zip" on his first lead back...
My compadre "Zip" on his first lead back...
Climbing Karpkwitz 5.6 on top rope. Natural anchor...
Climbing Karpkwitz 5.6 on top rope. Natural anchor...
Trough, Karpkwitz, and B-3 (left to right).
BETA PHOTO: Trough, Karpkwitz, and B-3 (left to right).

Comments on Karpkwitz Add Comment
Show which comments
By mmurduff
Nov 29, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb was somewhat challenging to my partners. Although a 5.6, The right leaning crack past the horizontal area takes a bit of commitment even if it only takes a few pieces of gear. The crack protects very well with Medium Nuts. The anchor I placed took a #4 directly above the crack and small tricams in a horizontal. I give it one star because the crack can be done as a layback, which I thought was fun!
By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

A fun 5.6.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

Haven't done this one in a while but I remember the lieback/side pull move about 15' up getting into the left crack being tricky for a 5.6. I didnt know how to get finger cams or locks back then so it might be easier. You can place a piece right there though and have a good stance before the move. This climb is pretty much about that 1 move and is a bit easier above and below it.
By 72HW
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Yeah - the move past the lieback is exciting, and if not for that move the climb would've rated a single star. This is a really fun climb, one the aspiring leader might do well to experience on the sharp end.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 12, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

One of my first goals at Josh was to lead Karpkwitz. It took a couple of years before I found it on a day w/o a crowd. But it was fun and I really like this climb, short but sweet.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A very fun, but short climb on some desert varnish. I'll agree with the 5.6 rating. Led in 1985 using just a #7 stopper, and #1 Friend.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Climbed this again just last week; after a 20+ year interval...it still feels like 5.6. Very enjoyable at the grade.
By cyrus
From: Menifee, CA
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route. The bottom half is just stuff to get you to the upper crack, which unfortunately is over after just a few moves.