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Climber with entirely too much gear for this climb...
On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. Karpkwitz ascends just to the left of B-3.
This is a fun little climb. It starts with some bouldery moves down low and climbs through some patina plates to a horizontal about 2/3 of the way up. From there, you have the option of toping out using a curving crack to the left or face climbing on the right -- either way is about the same difficulty. Anchor from the same spot as for B-3. Walk off to the north.
Small to medium pieces. You might be able to move over right into B-3 and place a larger piece. Also, it may be possible to sling a plate or two on the way up, but I can't really imagine wanting to ...
My compadre "Zip" on his first lead back after a y...
My daughter shows us the right way to do the upper...
Climbing Karpkwitz 5.6 on top rope. Natural anchor...
BETA PHOTO: Leading Karpkwitz
Nov 29, 2005
This climb was somewhat challenging to my partners. Although a 5.6, The right leaning crack past the horizontal area takes a bit of commitment even if it only takes a few pieces of gear. The crack protects very well with Medium Nuts. The anchor I placed took a #4 directly above the crack and small tricams in a horizontal. I give it one star because the crack can be done as a layback, which I thought was fun!
Sep 10, 2006
A fun 5.6.
|By Mark L|
Apr 30, 2007
Haven't done this one in a while but I remember the lieback/side pull move about 15' up getting into the left crack being tricky for a 5.6. I didnt know how to get finger cams or locks back then so it might be easier. You can place a piece right there though and have a good stance before the move. This climb is pretty much about that 1 move and is a bit easier above and below it.
Mar 3, 2008
Yeah - the move past the lieback is exciting, and if not for that move the climb would've rated a single star. This is a really fun climb, one the aspiring leader might do well to experience on the sharp end.
|By Gary Schenk|
Mar 12, 2008
One of my first goals at Josh was to lead Karpkwitz. It took a couple of years before I found it on a day w/o a crowd. But it was fun and I really like this climb, short but sweet.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 9, 2010
A very fun, but short climb on some desert varnish. I'll agree with the 5.6 rating. Led in 1985 using just a #7 stopper, and #1 Friend.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Apr 12, 2011
Climbed this again just last week; after a 20+ year interval...it still feels like 5.6. Very enjoyable at the grade.
From: Menifee, CA
Jan 3, 2012
Fun route. The bottom half is just stuff to get you to the upper crack, which unfortunately is over after just a few moves.