Karmic Trace 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Ben Folsom, August 10th 2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ben Folsom on Aug 10, 2008 |
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Wholesome's overlooked gem Karmic Trace
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Description Strenuous moves in a dihedral lead to a knifeblade in a horizontal. Another big move leads to good cracks above. Where the crack kind of runs out, continue straight up the face past gear placements in horizontals. A final mantle onto a slab and a good horizontal crack to set up a gear belay.
To descend, and easy scramble right (about 5.4) from the natural anchor will lead you to a set of chains on top of Celestial Ascension. Rappel from there.
Location To the right of Swamp Cooler is Painted Bird, which has a bolt and pin at a 3 foot roof. To the right of that is "Tainted Word" which has a fixed knifeblade above a small roof. Just to the right of that is a clean dihedral with a fixed knifeblade in a horizontal above the end of the dihedral. This is "Karmic Trace". The next route to the right is "Devil Tree".
Protection A set of cams from small to #2 camalot size. Be sure to save two or three for the belay. The horizontal crack for the belay is varied in size.
BETA PHOTO: The middle-right side of the Cathedral between Dev...
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By Ben Folsom
Aug 10, 2008
| I spent many hours cleaning dirt, gravel & cobwebs out of the cracks. The knifeblade which protects the crux is bomber. When I placed it, it rang and went in perfectly. I have fallen on it many, many times and it hasn't budged. |
By Ben Folsom
Aug 11, 2008
| I tried to do my homework... but if anybody has led this (or soloed it) before, please let me know and I'll go yank the pin I placed and delete this post. I doubt it has been climbed before as the crack was full, and I mean full of dirt and gravel. I spent 4-6 hours cleaning it out. I did not clean any of the nice, green, aesthetic lichen off the wall. None of the usable holds interfered with it. I asked around and couldn't find anything about this line anywhere. |
By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 13, 2008
| Nice work Ben! Been eyeing that 'hedral for years. Glad you did the cleaning! |
By clayhoon
Sep 16, 2008
| nice addition.. hard little boulder problem.. |
By Ben Folsom
Nov 1, 2010
| Someone stole the fixed pin I left in this route. It's a good route, and is unprotectable without that pin. I guess I'll have to put a bolt in now? if the pin is going to continue to disappear. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 1, 2010
| Lame. Somebody needs to have their nuts nailed to Devil Tree... |
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