A reachy start leads to easier climbing above.
Head up left past the pod on your way up Middle Earth. Just right of the cave/chimney.
Bolts / rap anchor.
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 5, 2007
A right variation follows a crack to the Glamdring anchor. Bring a .75 cam if you want to protect this. I think a smaller cam will work too. The variation goes at a grade much easier than the 10a start of Karmic Relief.
May 2, 2009
This is the softest 10a I've ever done. Crux is at the start, get on it and have some fun. Also the variation is not nearly as aesthetic as the bolted route imo.
|By Michael Clark|
From: Irvine, CA
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I agree, this is the easiest 5.10 I have ever been on. More like a 5.9. But regardless it is a good climb with a tricky beginning.
|By Johnny Ink|
Sep 10, 2011
Today was my first time on Karmic Relief. I lead it after watching a friend complete it before me. I probably wouldn't have been able to do it without the beta. Anyhow, did you guys use a Gaston to get up the crux? That was the gnarliest move for me to do. It felt pretty awkward. The route did get way easier after the crux though. I'd rate the crux a 10a and the rest of the climb a 9.
From: San Diego, California
Aug 28, 2012
As of August 27th, 2012, there is a large chest size boulder near the top that is coming loose. This boulder has a flake handhold that many may want to grab to pull themselves up over the ledge. Do not pull on this flake! There are other holds to grab. . . . Other than that great route. :) Be safe!