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Karmic Edges 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Turecki 89
Season: Not Sunny or Rain
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: Gaar on Dec 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Me on Karmic Edges... Photo Eric Draper

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A very nice overlooked climb in zion.

Step off the pillar and make a hard first move. Following the bolts to the crack, either place a cam, in the hard to see crack or run it to the next bolt. after 3 more bolts enjoy fun finger and hand crack for 60 more feet to a 2 bolt anchor

Side note: Earlier this season a friend and I reto fitted the missing hangers and updated the gear on this. All Bolts have modern hangers and are at least 3/8in bolts. 3 bolts are now 1/2"ers, But the rest should be updated sometime soon, seeing how the 3/8 bolts are the originals.

Location 

Climb/Scramble/Solo the first pitch of Space shot and go to the left of the start for the 2nd pitch

Protection 

8 Draws, Single rack to yellow Camelot. Some GREAT nut placments here too! Can Rap/Lower with Single 70m not sure about ?60m?


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Rock Climbing Photo: Karmic edges
Karmic edges

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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Mar 28, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
I have a line fixed on Karmic Edges (11+/12-) over by space shot. 3/28/2016

PLEASE LEAVE MY LINE ALONE.

I attempted the route, the bolts are most definitely original and may or may not hold a fall. I am not overestimating the severity of the degradation. I have pulled bolts in zion by falling on them, these are solidly worrisome. They are heavily corroded, 3/8ths and most, likely to be very shallow.

Thank you Gaar for the hangers, the bolts may have been fine when you did that replacement, but now they need to go.

I will jug the line and replace with 1/2x5in glue ins for all 8 lead bolts and 2 anchors.

This route is classic and deserves the face lift

PLEASE DON'T TAKE MY ROPE.

Or if you saw my other post, don't cut 8ft off the end off my route.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 1, 2016

no they needed replacement then, we just sacked up...it's climbing in zion...it's not supposed to be safe! is it?

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