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San Rafael Knob
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Karma's Castle in the Air T 
Phantom Spire T 

Karma's Castle in the Air 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Glime, S. Demko: March 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,119
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Mar 18, 2007

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How it looks as you are walking in. Person on top...


This is a well seen tower from many places in the south central swell. It overlooks Reds Canyon.

Start on the southwest side of the formation and follow the nice looking crack past a potentially loose block continuing up the nice crack up to a ledge. Climb up through a loose section to a chimney, past a bolt to the top.

This is 2 star climbing with a 4 star location... my thoughts? Three star climb.

Descent: Rap from two bolts, I believe two ropes are needed. (I used two 50m ropes.)


From I-70, take the 114 exit. Drive south along the Copper Globe Mine Road. When you come to the fork in the road that says Copper Globe Mine 1 mile to the right, continue straight on the Kimball Draw Trail.
4.1 miles past Phantom Spire, which is 9.2 miles from the interstate, you will come to a trail on your left (gps cord.: N38, 47.03 ft, W110, 55.70ft) Follow this trail to the left, after about 300 yds, you will see a pile of dirt on your left. There is a faint old jeep trail to your left. Park here, follow the trail through the field where the trail becomes more prominent. The trail leads to the base of the tower. It is about a 20 minute walk from where you park at the dirt pile.

Technically, I believe the road that breaks left off of the Kimball Draw Trail is called the Reds Canyon Overlook Trail. Confused yet? Good luck.


Cams from a blue alien to 4 camalot. A few extra cams in the 3 camalot to 4 camalot range come in handy.

Photos of Karma's Castle in the Air Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Karma's Castle in the Air.  Fantastic views.
Karma's Castle in the Air. Fantastic views.
Rock Climbing Photo: As you are driving south past the Copper Globe Min...
BETA PHOTO: As you are driving south past the Copper Globe Min...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the crack in the center up and r...
The route follows the crack in the center up and r...

Comments on Karma's Castle in the Air Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This thing is great. No need to aid as it easily goes free at 5.9 with just a few short cruxes. Most of the rock isn't bad with the exception of the chimney just before the top - the rock there is execrable, though it does protect well.

The road in is pretty rough - high clearance 4x4 only. The road has deteriorated some since I was last there 5 years ago.

This tower may have the best view anywhere in the Swell.

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