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Crimps, heelhooks, and a unique two-or-three finger pocket make this problem worth climbing once, but due to the awkwardness created by the boulder beneath the problem, once is probably enough. Crouch start on the overhanging face with a slopey edge and pull up and right to a set of crimps. The first move is probably the crux. Get a heelhook, match the crimp, and move right again to another crimp before standing up into the pocket. After some trickery the topout is simple.
On the Karma boulder between the Crack Boulder and Pinnacle boulders, next to the Sorority boulder and visible from the trail. Scramble down off the back.
Pads & a spotter - falling may result in a backflop.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 9, 2013
rating: V6- 7a
I was able to do this in a slightly more direct way than what is listed above. After the first move, rather than matching the crimp, I simply bumped my right hand up to the pocket (with a heel hook). From there I used the pocket and the starting left hand hold to stand up on the right foot eventually slapping for the distant sloper at the top with the left hand. This method avoided the awkwardness and dab potential of the other method. Both methods felt about the same difficulty, but this way climbed considerably better.
Honsestly, this is a pretty good climb and definitely worth doing.