|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Bob Horan, Clean Dan Grandusky, and Jerry Greenleaf|
|Submitted By:||Peter Hunt on Aug 21, 2006|
|Comments on Karma Chameleon||Add Comment|
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By Bruce Pech
Sep 13, 2006
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
We did this as a second pitch to Midnight Express. 3rd or 4th class diagonally left up a slabby ledge for 30' to reach the belay from ME's anchors.
Pros: tricky, strenuous cruxes on the 2nd and 3rd bulging/overhanging walls.
Cons: Serious ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 2nd wall (just below the crux transition from the discontinuous layback crack to standing on a 3" wide ledge); some ledge fall risk between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the 3rd wall. Nasty rope drag (on the 3rd wall and at the top anchors) if you use short draws or single biners to offset the PG-13 rating.
Maybe I was having an off day, but this felt a lot harder than .11b/c to me. I was reminded of a route description from Aaron Huey's Ten Sleep guidebook: "An .11 for solid .12 climbers."
By beth bennett
Mar 8, 2016
|This route looks inviting from the ground, but once you get to the base, you realize it's choss. The cruxes should really be pre-clipped, so you don't hit the ledge. Your belayer can't see you well, and it's just not that pleasant. Can't say I'd recommend it.|