|6,337 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock 1966, FFA: Dean Fry, Steve Lyford 10/73|
|Season: ||year round|
|Submitted By: ||rpc on Jan 26, 2006|
Leading Karate Crack - a beautiful splitter (rarit...
This is the "fishhook" shaped crack you see as you're hiking towards The Dihedrals area. It is on the vertical wall immediately left of a low angle narrow ramp (ramp is the 1st pitch of Cinamon Slab route, 5.6).
The route has some short, not terribly thought-provoking, though kind of strenuous climbing. And it is great fun! Jam the crack which fluctuates from #3 to #1 Camalot size (hands to thin hands). There are some face holds to take advantage of as well if you prefer. At the top, the crack turns right and traverses for about 6 feet. Step right into a deep chimney and downclimb 6 feet to bolted anchor inside chimney.
Cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot (doubles from #1 to #3). A #0.5 Camalot (or red Alien) works well in protecting the downclimb inside chimney.
My wife following Karate Crack. Photo taken from ...
Karate on a Kold day.
Dr. Joe, ready to head up into the "strenuous" por...
Kernsie on Karate crack
Risa following Karate crack.
Up, over, then down to the anchors.
sweet non-lower gorge cruiser
BETA PHOTO: Elliott lowering after cleaning the Karate Crack. ...
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 26, 2006
Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
Great line, but I didn't find the climbing as enjoyable as the cracks of the Lower Gorge. But fun stuff, nonetheless. Camalots work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make Camalots prone to walk, where hexes would be bomber. Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and downclimb to the chains!
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 26, 2010
The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are, as it is, make sure the person cleaning the route is fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high.
|By Wesley Ashwood|
From: Durango, CO
Aug 2, 2010
Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun.
|By Phill T|
May 29, 2012
take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me!
|By another Chad|
Feb 4, 2013
There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.