Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing 
Ancylostoma 
Bookworm 
Bunny Face 
Captain Xenolith 
Chain Reaction 
Cinnamon Slab 
Crossfire 
Cry Babies 
Darkness At Noon 
Easy Reader 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister 
Flat Earth, The 
Fox In Socks 
French Connection 
Ginger Snap 
Go Dog Go 
Heinous Cling 
Helium Woman 
Karate Crack 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) 
Karot Tots 
Last Waltz 
Latest Rage 
Latin Lover 
Left Slab Crack 
Lichen It 
Lycopodophyta 
Middle Aged Vandal 
Moondance 
Moonshine Dihedral 
Night Flight 
Powder in the Eyes 
Rabbit Stew 
Rattlesnake Chimney 
Right Slab Crack 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut 
Slow Burn 
Sunshine Dihedral 
Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
Vision 
Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

Karate Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock 1966, FFA: Dean Fry, Steve Lyford 10/73
Season: year round
Page Views: 7,950
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
sweet non-lower gorge cruiser
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the "fishhook" shaped crack you see as you're hiking towards The Dihedrals area. It is on the vertical wall immediately left of a low angle narrow ramp (ramp is the 1st pitch of Cinamon Slab route, 5.6).

The route has some short, not terribly thought-provoking, though kind of strenuous climbing. And it is great fun! Jam the crack which fluctuates from #3 to #1 Camalot size (hands to thin hands). There are some face holds to take advantage of as well if you prefer. At the top, the crack turns right and traverses for about 6 feet. Step right into a deep chimney and downclimb 6 feet to bolted anchor inside chimney.


Protection 

Cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot (doubles from #1 to #3). A #0.5 Camalot (or red Alien) works well in protecting the downclimb inside chimney.



Photos of Karate Crack Slideshow Add Photo
My wife following Karate Crack.  Photo taken from bolt anchors atop the route (inside chimney).
My wife following Karate Crack. Photo taken from ...
Risa following Karate crack.
Risa following Karate crack.
Karate on a Kold day.
Karate on a Kold day.
Leading Karate Crack - a beautiful splitter (rarity at Smith).
Leading Karate Crack - a beautiful splitter (rarit...
Dr. Joe, ready to head up into the "strenuous" portion of Karate Crack
Dr. Joe, ready to head up into the "strenuous" por...
Up, over, then down to the anchors.
Up, over, then down to the anchors.
Kernsie on Karate crack
Kernsie on Karate crack
Elliott lowering after cleaning the Karate Crack.   <br />This is the suggested way to rig the anchor on this crack, without lowering into that terrible corner system tot he right.
BETA PHOTO: Elliott lowering after cleaning the Karate Crack. ...
Comments on Karate Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 26, 2006

Great route.

Strangely enough, from what I've seen the Karate Wall receives more rappeling traffic than climbing traffic on heavy weekends. I seem to have a memory of an endless stream of boy scouts rapping down the wall after climbing up Cinammon Slab.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great line, but I didn't find the climbing as enjoyable as the cracks of the Lower Gorge. But fun stuff, nonetheless. Camalots work in the crack, but a rack of hexes might work even better! Lots of pods make Camalots prone to walk, where hexes would be bomber. Be sure to protect your second on the traverse and downclimb to the chains!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The anchor location on this route is bizarre- the bolts should be at least three or four feet higher than they are, as it is, make sure the person cleaning the route is fairly solid at the grade as they are effectively on lead for the last few feet of the climb and the consequences of a fall are fairly high.

By Wesley Ashwood
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2010

Great crack for tuff! I couldnt find the bolts at first glance after traversing right. Look down and right (behind you). A little funky but fun.

By Phill T
May 29, 2012

take a .75 for the horizontal at the top and then a .5 or equivalent (smaller would work too) around the corner to protect your 2nd on the traverse. watch out for the pigeon roosting at the top, scared the piss outa me!

By another Chad
Feb 4, 2013

There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.


Chad