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Mt. Everest
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Kangshung Face T 

Kangshung Face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cameron Burns, Jesse Harvey, November 16, 1997
Page Views: 749
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Me on top of Mt. Everest.

Description 

This route has engaging climbing on thought-provoking rock. The crux is probably going over the little roof. If it seems harder than 5.8 then remember to stem. There are enough footholds to keep the climbing pretty tame. You can get a fair amount of gear in, though who knows how much of it would hold.

Location 

The route goes up an obvious corner system that faces up toward Hurrah Pass. It's the only line on the formation that looks like it could be 5.8... See beta pic.

Protection 

A set of cams and micro cams. I used a #6 Friend right before the roof. Pins (as stated in the Bjornstad guide) not needed.


Photos of Kangshung Face Slideshow Add Photo
Beta pic.
BETA PHOTO: Beta pic.

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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 1, 2009

Though Desert Rock III suggests bringing some pitons, I climbed it clean pretty easily on March 27, 2009. I doubt I was the first.

Desert Rock III also mentions two bolts on top. I didn't really look around for them, but I didn't see any. The summit block has 1" webbing and a section of rope around it. There are a couple leaver biners on the slings.
By Ben Folsom
Apr 1, 2009

There is another small hoodoo adjacent to this formation. Sometime in the early 2000's I did the FA of the smaller adjacent hoodoo. It climbs a short line on the side that faces the Mt. Everest formation. I can't remember whether it used pitons or was clean, but I will try to find that information in my notes. It seems to me like it was A2-ish, mostly due to bad rock. Just another something to do on "waste days". I named this formation K2 to go along with the high mountain theme. On the summit there is some type of manky anchor, can't remember what it is; maybe two bolts, maybe not. If there is only one, feel free to put in another to create a nice anchor on the top.
By Geoff Unger
From: Moab, UT
Nov 18, 2009

I climbed Everest and K2. Freed both of them. Everest is 5.8 with weird gear and I thought K2 was 5.9 or 5.9+ R with a one bolt anchor on the summit. If you actually had to hang on the gear it probably would have been A2. I have a photo and can post a separate description if you want Ben.
By Ben Kiessel
Aug 21, 2011

If you are as lazy as I, consider throwing a rope over the hangnail and jugging up to the notch. Once at the notch 5.5 to the top.
By Clay Rardon
From: Bartow, WV
Sep 3, 2011

Awesome!

Ben you're the most lazy roommate a guy could ask for, other than Fat Chop. Great beta.
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 10, 2014

Climbed these both last weekend. Ideal desert towers for when your partner has a broken leg. There's currently a fixed BD Specter at the roof of Everest--weird. Just 16 inches right is an excellent hand-size cam slot in perfect rock and and down a bit is the horizontal #6 Camalot.

In the interests of helping transition this tower to non-hammering:

1. Tricky mantel at start is unprotected but once stood up there's reasonable green/yellow/red Alien-size slot, then one move higher a perfect red Camalot (#1). This would hold a truck. At the roof the #2 Camalot up and right at the lip would hold an Acura. Entertaining moves getting above the roof, pulling on jugs cemented into the dirt

No pins needed!

K2 is cleaning up nicely. No pins needed here, either. The rock actually is less choss, more actual rock than on Everest. It's a bit steeper. Similar selection of cams, Two Yellow Aliens, a few other small-medium cams, #5 or #6 Camalot for the final move. A small-medium wire will give excellent pro for the crux (too bad I forgot them....doh). Everest is 5.8+, K2 a bit harder, 5.9+. Both fun climbs.