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Rincon - L of Center Route
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Bondage 
Aerial Book 
Arete Bandit 
Bachar Yer Aryan 
Bat's Ass Dihedral 
Climb Of The Century 
Cuban Bluegrass 
Emerald City 
Evictor, The 
Faulty Logic 
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The 
Fraid Line 
Kangaroo Tail 
Leisure Time Arete 
Must'a Been High 
Over and Out 
Over the Hill 
Scenic Route 
Surf's Up 
Ventura Highway 

Kangaroo Tail 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Woodruff and Chris Peisker, 1978?
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 12, 2007
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This seldom climbed route has a 1-star start with a 3-star finish. Two stars all in all, I suppose.
This climb starts on the upper ledge of Rincon, above the crag's namesake climb. It takes the large, left-facing dihedral at the right side of the massive inset, just right of the climb Bat's Ass Dihedral.
Up and left of the finish of Rincon one can find a huge rockhouse. The left side has a right-facing corner with a huge, wedged flake (Bat's Ass Dihedral) and the right side has a left-facing corner with a tree at the base (Kangaroo Tail). Kangaroo Tail is just a few feet left of Cuban Bluegrass, and Ventura Highway is just to the right of Cuban Bluegrass.

Set a belay at the base of the smaller pine near the base of the corner so that if you take a tumble you can't drag you and your partner off the ledge for a 250' ride to the base of the wall. Get in to the corner and make a few odd moves to clasp a 12" square chock, set well into the small inset, maybe 8' up the route. Perhaps you can fiddle in a small ballnut or RP from a stance on this, but I thought it was bad gear. One move more will get you to a so-so baby Alien, then another to a stopper. Until you are pretty high up, a ground fall seems possible from crux moves (5.9+) Once past this initial section, the rock is clean and solid and the gear is good. Sink a few good cams (hand-sized) in the crack in the corner and move up to near the roof. Use a long sling on the final gear here to avoid drag- you will go pretty far right in a moment (though it's not obvious now). Just before the roof stem out right around the arete and up (2nd crux, 5.9) to a good under-cling on a solid flake. Set gear with a long runner and go up and slightly right up and over the top (3rd crux, 5.9). Belay from a tree back and left, not the skinny thing in front of you.
Walk off to the far left, passing the 'Over the Hill' walk-off on the way down. Before passing Over The Hill, you will see an attractive, right-facing corner going up one more tier. This is a good route called Brevitata (11c). It's fun & has a fixed pin at the crux, and is probably over-graded.


Up on the upper tier of Rincon Wall, on top of and further left the top of the Rincon Route. This is the left-facing dihedral to a roof between the 'Routes Bat's Ass Dihedral' and 'Cuban Bluegrass.'


Runout at the bottom to get established on a so-so chock-stone (be gentle!) and then a micronut to a tiny Alien or TCU before getting up and onto a good ledge with good rock and good pro. A groundfall might be a reality for the first few body lengths, and it would be a really bad place for it.
Rack: RPs, maybe a small ball-nut or two, and then some tiny and medium Aliens, then a #1 and #2 Camalot. The top belay is from a good tree up and left.

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