Kangaroo Corner 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | 1978: Peter Croft and Tami Knight |
| Submitted By: | Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 |
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Just past the crux of Kangaroo Corner.
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>
There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.
This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).
Location This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.
Protection Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchors can be found near the top of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Corner - excellent thin corner climbing -...
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After the crux.
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Past the low crux
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Mark R cruising the start
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Looks like a happy little ledge
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Mark wrapping things up
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| Comments on Kangaroo Corner |
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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 21, 2006
| Classic. As Peter says, a great choice for breaking into leading trad 11s. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| Done ti both ways, but is a good deal easier to cheat out left and use the drilled holes from the blasting. Maybe mid to hard 5.10's. Putting the left side "off" where the drilling was done keeps it harder, but still light for 11a. |
By Brandontru
From: Nevada
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b
| One of the funnest things to do, nice to play on if you are waiting for another climb. |
By Ross Morgan
From: Vancouver, BC
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Felt like a solid 11a to me. |
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 3, 2013
| Went for the redpoint on this and Flying Circus (10a) yesterday. Got this one, hung on FC. I don't know if that tells you more about my endurance (terrible, and worst in January) than the grading, but thought I'd throw that out there. I've never redpointed a 10d trad route (yet) either, so some more food for thought. I'm not grading it because I'm not too familiar with crack grades beyond solid 5.10, but I'm thinking this has to be soft.
Anyhow, bomber small nuts for the first part, then bomber finger-sized cams before the (easy) runout. Fun, you can squeeze this route in quickly as the challenge is only for a few minutes, then it's an easy romp. |
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