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This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.
This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).
This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.
Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchors can be found near the top of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Kangaroo Corner - excellent thin corner climbing -...
Looks like a happy little ledge
After the crux.
Mark R cruising the start
Past the low crux
Mark wrapping things up
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 21, 2006
Classic. As Peter says, a great choice for breaking into leading trad 11s.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Done ti both ways, but is a good deal easier to cheat out left and use the drilled holes from the blasting. Maybe mid to hard 5.10's. Putting the left side "off" where the drilling was done keeps it harder, but still light for 11a.
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
One of the funnest things to do, nice to play on if you are waiting for another climb.
|By Ross Morgan|
From: Vancouver, BC
Dec 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Felt like a solid 11a to me.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 3, 2013
Went for the redpoint on this and Flying Circus (10a) yesterday. Got this one, hung on FC. I don't know if that tells you more about my endurance (terrible, and worst in January) than the grading, but thought I'd throw that out there. I've never redpointed a 10d trad route (yet) either, so some more food for thought. I'm not grading it because I'm not too familiar with crack grades beyond solid 5.10, but I'm thinking this has to be soft.
Anyhow, bomber small nuts for the first part, then bomber finger-sized cams before the (easy) runout. Fun, you can squeeze this route in quickly as the challenge is only for a few minutes, then it's an easy romp.