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Kane Springs Canyon

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Abraxas Wall 
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Big Brain 
Cam Burns Area 
CB's Love Muscle 
Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone), The 
Crusty the Clown 
Fickle Finger of Fate 
Gatherer Canyon 
Happy Turk Hoodoo 
Homer and Marge 
Ice Cream Parlor 
Isolated Climbs 
Kane Springs Campground 
Kyle's Tower 
Moonflower Canyon 
Mt. Everest 
Pensive Putterman 
Power Line Buttress , The 
Predator Tower 
Scorched Earth Crag 
Shelbyville 
Space Tower Area 
Stimulants Wall 

Kane Springs Canyon 


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Location: 38.5232, -109.6024 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
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Desert climbing makes you thirsty.
King's Bottom C...

Description 

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.


Getting There 

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.


90 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',2],['5.8',9],['5.9',16],['5.10',31],['5.11',17],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
Black Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 50'   Ice Cream Parlor
Crack 3   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
Critical Mass   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Ice Cream Parlor
Wolverine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
The Happy Turk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Aid   Happy Turk Hoodoo
Deep Voodoo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380'   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Crack 2   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
A Good Day to Die   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ice Cream Parlor
Hallow Souls   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Space Tower Area
Coffin Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Ice Cream Parlor
Brush Your Teeth   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Ice Cream Parlor
The Kind   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Isolated Climbs
Unknown   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Moonflower Canyon
Hot Karl Sunday   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Ice Cream Parlor
Flour Power   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Bakery
Playing Hooky   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2     Aid, 4 pitches, 375'   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Ice Cream Parlor Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Ice Cream Parlor
T-Rex   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Ice Cream Parlor
Xylokane   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Abraxas Wall
Corner Route   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Browse More Classics in Kane Springs Canyon

Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
The fingers on the right on the approach

Unknown 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a UT : Moab Area : ... : Moonflower Canyon
A few mantles lead to the slot/chimney between the fingers. Run it out for 50' before getting in your first piece. Climb the chimney, using both pillars....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Kane Springs Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Kane Creek panorama, stitched together from  five photos. December. Top of the La Sals just poking up in the back. Below them is Shelbyville. This is a nice place to climb in midwinter.
Kane Creek panorama, stitched together from five ...
Road opposite of Potash (other side of river) bouldering. This problem showed signs of climbing activity previous to us. Miramontes Photography
Road opposite of Potash (other side of river) boul...
Another FA (2005, 06), this one 4-star all the way. First done from a stand (v3), then later a sit, down and right (v5)
Another FA (2005, 06), this one 4-star all the way...
start in the notch above the arch and climb that side
start in the notch above the arch and climb that s...
From the belay on Crack 1, Ice Cream Parlor - crazy stuff continues above both left and right!
BETA PHOTO: From the belay on Crack 1, Ice Cream Parlor - craz...
This was most likely an FA (2005, 06?), 4-star arete/dyno (v5ish?)
This was most likely an FA (2005, 06?), 4-star are...
Kane springs camp with Phurba on the right at the entrance of pritchett canyon.
Kane springs camp with Phurba on the right at the ...
Holy red-velvet cake with wite-chocolate chips batman! Most likely an FA (2005, 06?), not the best, but hard (v9 or somethin')
Holy red-velvet cake with wite-chocolate chips bat...
view from cave campsite
view from cave campsite
Comments on Kane Springs Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2002

Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun.

By Steve Forbes
Apr 5, 2005

I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 21, 2007

There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Nov 5, 2013

I'd like to give a big thanks to Paul Buchar (I'm assuming it was you). We did 10 towers out here yesterday and out of all those dirty, mank towers only one had less than ideal anchors. I was not expecting that. Along with a few summit registers to boot, thanks Paul.