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Kane Springs Canyon
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Kane Springs Canyon 


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Lat, Long: 38.5232, -109.6024 Map
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: From the belay on Crack 1, Ice Cream Parlor - craz...

Description 

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.


Getting There 

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
Black Slab   5.6     Sport, 50 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
Wolverine   5.8     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
Critical Mass   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
Crack 3   5.8     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
The Happy Turk   5.8 C1     Aid   Happy Turk Hoodoo
Deep Voodoo   5.8 C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380 feet, Grade V   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Crack 2   5.8+     Trad   Ice Cream Parlor
Coffin Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
Hallow Souls   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II   Space Tower Area
A Good Day to Die   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
Brush Your Teeth   5.9+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
The Kind   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Isolated Climbs
Hot Karl Sunday   5.10c     Sport, 90 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
Flour Power   5.10c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Bakery
Playing Hooky   5.10d C2     Aid, 4 pitches, 375 feet, Grade IV   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Ice Cream Parlor Crack   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Ice Cream Parlor
For Desert Rats Only   5.11 R     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   The Cirque of the Climbable...
T-Rex   5.11c PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III   Ice Cream Parlor
Xylokane   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Abraxas Wall
Corner Route   5.12-     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   The Cirque of the Climbable...
Browse More Classics in Kane Springs Canyon

Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
Josh Janes leading 'Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11a). Photo taken from the anchors by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Ice Cream Parlor
When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get moving.Anthony Everhart...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Kane Springs Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Desert climbing makes you thirsty. <br />King's Bottom Campsite, Kane Springs. <br />Tucker Tech and the late Tom Burke. <br />Photo by Todd Gordon. <br />

Desert climbing makes you thirsty.
King's Bottom C...


Road opposite of Potash (other side of river) bouldering. This problem showed signs of climbing activity previous to us. Miramontes Photography

Road opposite of Potash (other side of river) boul...

This was most likely an FA (2005, 06?), 4-star arete/dyno (v5ish?)

This was most likely an FA (2005, 06?), 4-star are...

Holy red-velvet cake with wite-chocolate chips batman! Most likely an FA (2005, 06?), not the best, but hard (v9 or somethin')

Holy red-velvet cake with wite-chocolate chips bat...

Another FA (2005, 06), this one 4-star all the way. First done from a stand (v3), then later a sit, down and right (v5)

Another FA (2005, 06), this one 4-star all the way...

Kane Creek panorama, stitched together from  five photos. December. Top of the La Sals just poking up in the back. Below them is Shelbyville. This is a nice place to climb in midwinter.

Kane Creek panorama, stitched together from five ...


Comments on Kane Springs Canyon Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2002

Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun.

By Steve Forbes
Apr 5, 2005

I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 21, 2007

There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo