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DescriptionKane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them. Getting ThereFrom Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
Black Slab 5.6 Sport, 50 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Wolverine 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
Critical Mass 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Crack 3 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor
The Happy Turk 5.8 C1 Aid Happy Turk Hoodoo
Deep Voodoo 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380 feet, Grade V The Cirque of the Climbable...
Crack 2 5.8+ Trad Ice Cream Parlor
Coffin Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Hallow Souls 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Space Tower Area
A Good Day to Die 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Brush Your Teeth 5.9+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ice Cream Parlor
The Kind 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Isolated Climbs
Hot Karl Sunday 5.10c Sport, 90 feet Ice Cream Parlor
Flour Power 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Bakery
Playing Hooky 5.10d C2 Aid, 4 pitches, 375 feet, Grade IV The Cirque of the Climbable...
Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ice Cream Parlor
For Desert Rats Only 5.11 R Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III The Cirque of the Climbable...
T-Rex 5.11c PG13 Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Ice Cream Parlor
Xylokane 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Abraxas Wall
Corner Route 5.12- Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III The Cirque of the Climbable...
Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
Ice Cream Parlor Crack 5.11- UT : Moab Area : ... : Ice Cream Parlor
When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get moving.Anthony Everhart...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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