Kane Springs Canyon Rock Climbing
Desert climbing makes you thirsty. King's Bottom C...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.
From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonald's on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
102 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',3]
Classic Climbing Routes in Kane Springs Canyon
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Kane Springs Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Kane Springs Canyon:
Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon
Playing Hooky 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: Moab Area
: ... : The Cirque of the Climbable...
This route goes up the middle of the center tombstone. It is a super aesthetic climb (esp. P3) and has some great exposure. It can be a little noisy when all the jeeps and dirt bikes are crusin' around. This route has gone free, and there is a lot of chalk up there.Pitch 1 (5.7 or 5.10d): Two ways to go. A goofy 5.7 chimney pitch starts far to the climbers left of the P1 anchor. Begin up a sandy slot, a couple very easy stem moves puts you on a ledge, traverse a few feet right and climb up the 5...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2002
Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun.
By Steve Forbes
Apr 5, 2005
I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 21, 2007
There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Nov 5, 2013
I'd like to give a big thanks to Paul Buchar (I'm assuming it was you). We did 10 towers out here yesterday and out of all those dirty, mank towers only one had less than ideal anchors. I was not expecting that. Along with a few summit registers to boot, thanks Paul.