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WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

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Bear Mountain Slab 
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Sundown Ledge 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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Kettle Ridge Trail
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)  


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Location: 44.0058, -71.2406 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 203,559
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 18, 2009
Forecast:
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79° | 57°
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83° | 61°
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79° | 60°
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BETA PHOTO: Map of Kancamagus Crags

Description 

This Kancamagus region comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods.

Many of these crags are singularly interesting. Combined, this area represents a worthy destination in its own right. From the steep sport climbs at Sundown's Main Cliff, to the splitter crack of Crack in the Woods, to the easy but incredibly runout climbs of the Rainbow Slab, the Kancamagus Crags have enough rock to entertain every climber.

Getting There 

The Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway.

The Albany Covered Bridge is a good reference point. This connects the Kanc with Passaconaway Road (aka Dugway Road), on the other side of the river. Many areas are approached off Passaconaway Road.
WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area original map from vi...
WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area
original map from visitnh.gov/information/about-...

Reference 

The area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area.

Jerry Handren's North Conway Rock Climbs finally does justice to this area by including great photos, good directions, and thorough route descriptions.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

203 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',89],['2 Stars',63],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',41],['5.7',25],['5.8',24],['5.9',15],['5.10',20],['5.11',23],['5.12',22],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',10],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for WM: Kancamagus (Eastern):
Rock Garden    5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   Sundown Ledge : Lost Horizon
Perfect Wave   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Rainbow Slabs : 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
Found Arch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 110'   Lost Ledge
Classic Rock   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Sundown Ledge : Lost Horizon
Rough Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Crack In The Woods   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Crack In The Woods
Vultures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Tits Out for the Lads   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Agent Orange   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Dikenstein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Steamroller   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Woodchuck Ledge : The Caterpillar Wall
Romper Room   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
The Promised Land   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
The Big Rip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Mithras   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Big Papa   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport   Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff
Browse More Classics in WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)

Featured Route For WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)
Pretty cool looking...

Steamroller 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : The Caterpillar Wall
Classic! Undercling and Jam up an overhanging and strenuous left arching crack to an exciting move into a left facing corner's above the head single pad undercling and a side pull chicken wing "rest" before moving left again to more pumpy moves and a stopper crux using a few potential sets of beta to a piton and a heroic rock over mantle and a bolt anchor. Pitch two is dirty but angles left on the Bucket Loader finger crack to the trees. Step right to a piton and clip the lichen as protection up...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Slideshow Add Photo
Swift River  Photo by Loran Smith
Swift River Photo by Loran Smith
The Albany Covered Bridge
The Albany Covered Bridge
This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The ...
This is the view from Sundown's Alcohol Wall. The ...

Comments on WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kayte Knower
Aug 18, 2009
The Kancamagus Crags are little pockets of wilderness climbing along the Swift River in the White Mountains. While Sundown Ledge sees more consistent traffic than the rest of these crags, the area as a whole offers a remote climbing experience compared to the usual NH destinations of Cathedral, White Horse, and Rumney.

The approaches to many of these crags are hard to find and strenuous. (Despite repeated attempts, no one I know has actually made it to Crag-Y.) However, this adventurous hiking is well worth the effort as the area offers a variety of classic cracks, engaging mixed routed, and steep bolted lines. Some of the more remote cliffs are home to five-star granite routes that see few ascents, and the rock here still carries the flavor of an untouched line--grainy, rain-washed, and brushed with lichen.
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Oct 9, 2009
Thanks for combining these, Jay!
By amy colburn
Jul 1, 2010
Crag Y is well worth the hike. Been there many times.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 2, 2010
Hi Amy. You should add Crag Y to the database. I think it would be a useful addition.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 2, 2010
Ah Yes, the great crag Y- Might scare some people now, lotsa old pins !!!!! and the SHE-RA a real 10d
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 7, 2010
i was wondering if anyone could help me.im coming through the K and i was wondering how far is the bridge when you get on the K from Loon mountain side.i wanna climb lost ledge,and was wondering is the bridge on your left or right from the way im coming
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 7, 2010
The bridge would be on your left. I don't know the milage , though I bet you could figure it out from a map.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Sep 8, 2010
thank you for your help
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 2, 2013
Can an Administrator sort these routes when they get a chance
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