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DescriptionThe Kancamagus Crags Area comprises all of the cliffs on the eastern end of the Kancamagus Highway. This includes: Sundown Ledge, Woodchuck Ledge, Painted Walls, Rainbow Slab, and many other less-visited cliffs spread throughout the woods. Getting ThereThe Kancamagus Highway runs east-west through the middle of the White Mountains. Most of the climbing is concentrated on the eastern stretch of the highway, about 10 miles from the town of Conway. ReferenceThe area is well covered in Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains. Ed devotes over 100 pages to this area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kancamagus Crags:
Razor Crack C1 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, Grade II Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Rock Garden 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 110 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Perfect Wave 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet Rainbow Slabs : The Perfect Wave
Firebird 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 125 feet Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Southern Migration 5.9 PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Mount Huntington
Ace of Spades 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Rough Boys 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Kennel Boy 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge - Lost Horizo...
Crack In The Woods 5.10c Trad, 70 feet Crack In The Woods
Vultures 5.10d Trad Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Agent Orange 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Woodchuck Ledge : The Zonkers Wall
Dikenstein 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
The Promised Land 5.12a Sport, 60 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Romper Room 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
The Big Rip 5.12a Sport Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Eyeless in Gaza 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Confederacy of Dunces 5.12c Trad, Sport, 70 feet Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Mithras 5.12d Sport Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Yellow Matter Custard 5.13a Sport Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Featured Route For Kancamagus Crags
Love Crack 5.12b NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif...
Climb the right leaning crack on amazing and fun jams to crack's end. Start as low as possible down there. When the crack ends face climb straight up (crux) to a bolt around the corner. Two options exist from here, climb the left face up to the top or continue up the right face and cracks to a shallow tip layback corner and a thin face moves. Lot's of great climbing! Pine tree anchor. I didn't see a bolt anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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