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 ADVANCED
Kanaranzi Buttress (South Face)
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5/8 TR 
K-1 TR 
Kanaranzi Corner T,TR 
Kanaranzi Left TR 
Kanaranzi Roof TR 
Layback, The TR 
Lichen No Other TR 
Machete TR 
Molly's Jolly TR 
Squeeze, The T,TR 
Triple Chockstone T,TR 

Kanaranzi Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: Joe Mokrycki on Jul 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Joe beginning the Kanaranzi Corner

Description 

The roofs and arete add more exposure than you usually find here. There is a dihedral at the junction of the south and east faces. Climb the corner up to the first roof, go right, then up the east-facing crack to the upper roof (which can easily be made harder, but hardly made easier).


Location 

Start on the south face near the corner, its pretty hard to miss.


Protection 

I would have a lot of large pro. Up around the second roof there is a beautiful pothole you can thread with a sling. There is another large pothole that can be slung for an anchor. Better yet, just walk around back, climb the fairly easy Class 3 chimney to set up a top-rope.



Photos of Kanaranzi Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Joe Mokrycki leading Kanaranzi Corner at the first roof. Photo taken by Rachel DeVries. 07/06/07
Joe Mokrycki leading Kanaranzi Corner at the first...
Kanaranzi Corner - Photo taken on 06/07/07 by Joe Mokrycki
Kanaranzi Corner - Photo taken on 06/07/07 by Joe ...
Joe Mokrycki nearing the top of Kanaranzi Corner
Joe Mokrycki nearing the top of Kanaranzi Corner
Crux section.
Crux section.
Comments on Kanaranzi Corner Add Comment
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By Sam Smolnisky
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Sep 23, 2011

I didn't have anything bigger than a #3 C4 when I lead this, and it forced me to run it out between roofs. At the second roof, above the place where you can thread a sling, I found a small pocket crack that fit a #2 Master Cam. I felt better about that placement than the sling. To each their own

By Pete Hunt
Mar 13, 2014

I wasn't super psyched on this lead. The crux at the top is difficult to protect and would be kinda ugly even if your pro held. Good route, but maybe better as a top rope.