Kamps/Goldstone Route 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 330 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Kamps and Rich Goldstone, 1966 |
| Submitted By: | R.Walters on Mar 30, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Spire 4 North Face M. McNeil photo
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Description A nice, long route on the N face of Spire 4 that deserves more attention. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but with more traffic, it could clean up pretty nicely. P1 - Starting at the lowest toe of rock on the N face, link together crack systems traversing back and forth a bit. Belay (gear) in an alcove at the beginning of a large chimney system. You might have to work a bit for the pro, but it's there. (5.8+, ~175') P2 - Begin up the chimney system, trending left into some offwidth and fist-sized action in the back of a deep cleft. Wriggle onto the summit and belay. (5.8, ~150')
Location Hike just past the N side of the 3/4 gully to the toe of Spire Four's N face. A fixed pin should be visible from the ground and will get you headed in the right direction.
Protection Doubles from tcu's to #4 Camalot. A #5 and #6 can be placed on P2. First pitch has a few fixed pins.
P1 belay McNeil photo
| yeah a 6
| Line taken on the first pitch.
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| Comments on Kamps/Goldstone Route |
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By Mike McNeil Apr 10, 2012
| I'm pretty sure the 6 came in handy on that one as well. |
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