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Rubaiyat Spire
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East Face T 
Kamps Route T 
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Kamps Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Kamps, Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The councilman signing the summit register. Looks...

Description 

This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire. Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney. Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag. The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a flared crack and tops out.

Location 

Start on a block (see photos) on the north/uphill face of Rubaiyat spire. Follow cracks as above.

Protection 

I did not place anything larger than a #4 camalot. Plenty of runners. Large runner or use rope to make an anchor with the flake at the top of the chimney.

2 bolts to rap. One 60m rope would almost certainly NOT make it to the ground.


Photos of Kamps Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start on top of the higher block shown here.  Gett...
Start on top of the higher block shown here. Gett...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo is a little dark but shows you can climb str...
Photo is a little dark but shows you can climb str...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay leading the short second pitch.
Jay leading the short second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron coming to the summit.
Aaron coming to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the second pitch.
Following the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay, the councilman, and the Eggman on Rubaiyat su...
Jay, the councilman, and the Eggman on Rubaiyat su...

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By Kirtis
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 22, 2014

Great Old School 5.7 climbing, so be solid at your grades. Rope drag can be a bitch = Extend your pro, or just don't protect the chimney like I did. Bring webbing for rap anchors on the E side of the spire.

Great Route defiantly worth giving it a go

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