Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Inner Outlet
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Inner Out let Gill Variation T 
Big E's Two Project T 
Bronchial Distress T,S 
Cold Feat T,S 
Conn Chimney T 
Gill Route T 
Griffin's Romp and Roll T 
Hardrocker T,S 
Honey, I Shrunk My Nads T,S 
Jungle Fever T 
Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) T 
Katey's Route T,S 
Lander Turkey Shoot T,S 
Mack Daddy T 
No need to be Chicken S 
Other Trucker Favorites T 
Retable Route T,S 
Rockin' Harder S 
Rustlers, The T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Taste the Bun T 
Two Year Plan T,S 
Wiessner Chimney T 
Unsorted Routes:

Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Kamps with Mark and Beverly Powell 1965
Page Views: 6,996
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Me, Michelle and our pal the chicken at the belay ...

Description 

This is the best pitch of climbing under 5.9 in the Outlets, and maybe the best single pitch period.

On the side of Inner Outlet opposite the lake, look for a beautiful prominent crack. Climb it. A fairly long sustained pitch of great climbing with bomber gear leads to the top of the formation. The climbing is stout for 5.7, but it is so well protected it is a much easier way to the top of the Inner Outlet than the Wiessner Chimney.

This is one of the top ten pitches in the Needles for sure. A double rope rap from the to lads to the ground.

Protection 

Standard Rack. This is one of those magnificent climbs that sucks up almost any gear anywhere.


Photos of Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) Slideshow Add Photo
Ummmm.... I guess the guyz couldn't control themselves...
Ummmm.... I guess the guyz couldn't control themse...
Approaching the top on sweet jambs!
Approaching the top on sweet jambs!
Isn't it beautiful?
BETA PHOTO: Isn't it beautiful?
Shows how to find the Inner Outlet and Classic crack from the lake.
BETA PHOTO: Shows how to find the Inner Outlet and Classic cra...
Enjoying a definite classic!
Enjoying a definite classic!
Didn't know there was a head jamb on this route!
Didn't know there was a head jamb on this route!
Dave about half way up trying to plan for the next gear placement. I think this is a realtively good rest spot.
Dave about half way up trying to plan for the next...
Somewhere in the middle with way too much gear
Somewhere in the middle with way too much gear
Photo by Dianne.
Photo by Dianne.
Conor Smyth on Classic Crack.
Conor Smyth on Classic Crack.
Loyd on the opening moves.
Loyd on the opening moves.
View from summit of Inner Outlet after climbing "Classic Crack".
View from summit of Inner Outlet after climbing "C...
Sara cranking!
Sara cranking!
Conor Smyth on Inner Outlet summit.
Conor Smyth on Inner Outlet summit.
Jugz avoiding crack at all times.
Jugz avoiding crack at all times.
Peter Arndt on summit of Inner Outlet. <br />Sylvan Lake in background.
Peter Arndt on summit of Inner Outlet.
Sylvan Lake...
Gary Schmidt figuring out the hand jams.
Gary Schmidt figuring out the hand jams.
On the summit of Inner Outlet after a great climb!
On the summit of Inner Outlet after a great climb!
Classic photo on top of Classic Clack
Classic photo on top of Classic Clack
Tracie nearing the top.
Tracie nearing the top.

Comments on Kamps Crack (Classic Crack) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 23, 2014
By Bob Archbold
Aug 15, 2002

This route was first climbed August 5, 1965 by Bob Kamps with Mark and Beverly Powell. This is a great climb in the mornings of a really hot day since it will stay cool for sometime. This is also one of the few Needles routes that will form a line of climbers waiting to do it.
By david Schneider
Jun 16, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don___t doubt that for you seasoned trad climbers, this climb is like a walk in the park. However, I___m not and it was not. :-) However, there were no surprises on this route when scoping it out from the bottom. It looks to be a pretty serious climb and it is. It's on you for most of the climb with one good rest spot and a few other ok spots. You may be inclined to user your large cams on the bottom, but save them for the top half where the crack widens. There are bomber nut placements on the lower half.I had to kind of plan ahead at the top for using my one and only #4 Camalot, the last piece.Nice climb though, I___m glad I did it!

sunny

John Page's guide rates this climb as a 5.8, that seems to be a more accurate rating.
By david Schneider
Jun 16, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sorry about all the separate posts, but one more thought. When throwing your rope from the top, try to toss it to the west. If you don't, you'll end up with a jumbled mess on top of the huge block just to the east of the climb. On the advise of a local, when pulling the rope you should stand as far west and against Vertigo as you can get so you can clear the block. I didn't do the toss right, but the pull went just fine.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 28, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We thought this was a classic crack! I ended up taking my #4 & #5 Camalots with me and placed them 3/4 of the way up. Weren't necessary, but I had them and they were quicker than placing something else there. Really appreciated the "Throw West young man" advice. We had to use two ropes to rap. We had two 60m ropes (10.5mm & 8.5mm). I'd say it's a classic solid 5.7 crack.
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 30, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just a note about the picture showing Sylvan Lake and the front side of this rock. The route and rap anchors are actually on the other side of the rock that is pointed to in the photo. HTH.
By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
May 9, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great climb!! I used nuts, small and medium hexes and some tricams, which seemed to work well, though would've been nice to have some large cams. This one is fun, fun and just fun, with great belay stance at the top.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2007

A great line but for most people will probably feel more like 5.8 than 5.7. It is also long and fairly sustained. A true trad classic.
By Tara Steele
Jul 12, 2007

I should read the description in the guide book before leaving the ground. Don't jam it the whoel way up unless you want to make it harder than necessary. MY SO lead it with ease, I seconded it with pain and grunting. When I got to the top he asked why all the grunting, I said I was havving some trouble jamming in the wider sections. He said, "Oh, you use the face for holds, not the crack." Oops, I'll know better next time.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008

What's the name and grade of the bolted climb to the right of Classic Crack? The climb's about 7 bolts long with a gear placement or two up higher. I think the grade around 10a/b.
By Brian K
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 16, 2008

I think it's called "Two Year Plan." My friend said it was 10d. Good route.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Definitely my favorite route in the whole Needles area so far and probably in the top 3 for the entire Black Hills!!! This is a MUST do for anyone who like trad. You can pretty much sew it up the entire way and shouldnt need anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I used hand jams most of the way up and had no prblems with it. Cant wait to do it again!
By Loyd Wofford III
Sep 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lead this beauty on my first ever trip to the needles area one could only wish all trad was this good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By Joel Leusink
From: Hull, IA
May 29, 2012

Climbed this route twice now. great fun and a great route to practice your Trad leading skills. The second time I used one 70 meter rope and just barely made it to the ground. This saved me from having to haul a second rope up a one pitch climb.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

standard rack from small-ish .3/.4 up to 3, one set of nuts, and 8-10 draws is plenty. no need for anything bigger than a 4. bring a sling or 2, there's a couple bomber horns to sling up top. awesome, comfy belay ledge too. this route is so great!
By RustyLane
From: Minneapolis
Jun 23, 2014

Great climb, I first climbed to add to my list of classic climbs to guide back when I guided full time. I highly recommend, solid pro and solid placements all the way to the top, when it backs off climb like a classic Black Hills climb and run it out!