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Beak Boulder
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Kamikaze Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Ray Olsen, 1983
Season: Early AM sun. Faces East.
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Mar 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Kamikaze Crack

Description 

Crux is right off the ground, and maybe at a pod about half way up.
Good pro anywhere you want it.
Even though the rock in the area seems like total crap, the rock on this route is very good, even to the point of being slick.

additional info: WideFetish.com

Location 

Getting out to the route will take about 35 - 40 minutes. Park at Split Rock, and head out towards Morongo Man. Eventually you will hit a marked trail going East towards the Bond Boulders and Tiger Rocks. (see approach map). Continue past Tiger Rocks going East and as you drop over the next saddle, you will see the Beak Boulder (see approach map). Kamikaze is on the back side of the Beak Boulder formation, on the North East face. To the left of Kamikaze is another wide crack rated 10a, and further left is Throbbing Gristle, 5.12a

Protection 

Starts out fat taking a #6 Wild Country for the opening moves. From here it is mostly fist until an easy hands section near the top. Bring a few extra in the 2" to 3" range for the anchor on top.

For the route: 1 2" cam, 2 3" cams, 2 4" cams, 1 5" cam, 1 6" cam


Photos of Kamikaze Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Me on the rig.  Photo by Will.
Me on the rig. Photo by Will.
Approach from the Bond Boulders and Tiger Rocks
BETA PHOTO: Approach from the Bond Boulders and Tiger Rocks
Kamikaze
Kamikaze
Kamikaze Crack
Kamikaze Crack

Comments on Kamikaze Crack Add Comment
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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is an amazing climb! Totally worth the hike. I took a #6 C4, #5 C4, #4.5 (old camalot), #4 C4, (2) #3.5 (old camalot) #2 C4, #1 C4, and a #3 C4. Full value, with an awesome range of off width techniques. Probably my favorite off width lead to date.