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Kama Sutra 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, 1998
Page Views: 1,899
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 29, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The is the best of the trad crack climbs at Sleeping Beauty. It would be 3 stars if cleaner, but as is it is cleaner than the other crack climbs here. Rossiter calls the initial ceiling 10d. It felt about 10b to us--perfect, straightforward jams. I had more trouble higher up at the wide spot that Rossiter calls 5.9.

Start: At the left end of Ledge 2 is a "gap" in the ledge where you either have to traverse on the rock and squeeze behind a tree, or drop down about 8 feet and climb back up. Just left of this gap is a hand crack through the ceiling. This is the route. Just left of this the bolted Lightspeed climbs the same ceiling.

P1. The climb: Climb the ceiling on perfect jams and gear. Easier climbing follows the crack to where it gets wide. Use the #3 Camalot here. I thought the wide section was quite hard. I did a couple of fist jams. My partners used various other techniques. Rossiter says you can, instead, move left at 10c and up a flared hand crack at 5.9. I considered that.... 55 feet.

P2. Above the wide section, pass a small tree and then follow a very fun, thin, 8-ish crack that angles slightly left. There are lots of scoops, etc. for your feet, so it's more like face climbing with the crack for gear. The crack is slightly discontinuous, but there is good gear when you need it. There are quite a few grass tufts in the crack, but they do not detract from the climbing. At the top, when the angle eases way back, get a directional and angle left to the anchors on Aerial Boundaries and a comfortable belay. 100 or 120 feet.

Descent: Two raps from bolts with rings with a single rope or a single rap with two ropes.

Protection 

Doubles from green Alien to #2 Camalot, single #3 Camalot and #3.5 (#4 Friend). Single set nuts to conserve your cams. 20 draws including some long slings should be plenty. Tape or crack gloves optional for the bottom third of the climb.


Photos of Kama Sutra Slideshow Add Photo
Armin whooping it up linking the pitches.
Armin whooping it up linking the pitches.
Kama Sutra from below.
BETA PHOTO: Kama Sutra from below.
Pebby at work on Kama Sutra...before the flood.
Pebby at work on Kama Sutra...before the flood.
Joan Johns retreats from Kama Sutra in yet another thunderstorm.  Does it rain in August or what? It took two tries, but the route is now very clean.
Joan Johns retreats from Kama Sutra in yet another...
Jonathan surmounting the pain of a bloodied thumb incurred on the sport climb to the left.
Jonathan surmounting the pain of a bloodied thumb ...

Comments on Kama Sutra Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2013
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A long, excellent crack climb. A few burly hand jams through the roof, and an awkward wide section a little higher were the main difficulties. My partners with smaller hands (and shorter reach) found the roof difficult. The long, angling finger crack at the top was also fun.

You can rappel with two ropes back to the ledge at the start. Rappel straight down Aerial Boundaries; don't angle the rappel back toward the start of the climb, or you risk getting a rope stuck on a ledge with loose blocks after you pull it.
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 14, 2004

Just make sure when you throw a rope over the edge of a cliff, you let the climbers below you know that a rope is coming...i.e. yell "ROPE!" , and maybe wait a few questions for a "CLEAR!".....even if you think no one is below you.
By S. Kimball
Sep 30, 2004

After the many happy hands and feet that have scrapped up this fine climb; we can safely say this is barely 5.10, including the traverse left to avoid the angry wide section.
By Pebby Johns
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 29, 2006

There has been extensive work done recently on this spectacular crack. Along with the trail work to the approach being done, there are now new anchors at the tops of the first and second pitches. The new anchors on the first pitch are even with the anchors on Lightspeed. This pitch is about 75 ft. long. The finger crack on the left has also been cleaned (again) and offers an excellent alternative to the off-width. The second pitch has been cleaned to open the crack for solid jams and placements. This pitch is about 100 ft. long. The route is high quality in excellent rock and deserved the attention given to it over the last couple of weeks (inspite of the adverse weather conditions at times). Kama Sutra is wholly deserving of three stars !!!
Pebby Johns
By Ben Collett
Sep 19, 2006

It seems that there is a 3rd variant. Realizing that my rack would not afford me any protection in the wide section, I traversed right past a lone bolt just below it and up a crack on the right. It was quite fun, well protected and not too dirty.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Ben,

The variant you did is a new route by Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns called The Tree of Life.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2006

Why cut the tree down to place the new convenience anchors at the top of P1? The tree is clearly visible in Ron's beta photo. What remains now is a 6" stump, 4-6" in diameter. I assume it was cut to make pulling the rope easier, but as there is another descent that has worked just fine for the 8 years this climb has existed, the tree should not have been chopped.
By Richard Rossiter
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

"Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups." Wisdom from PULP FICTION.

This 4-foot-tall tree was removed because it was totally in your face at the top of the off-width, totally wrapped around you at the only possible belay and was being slowly destroyed by people belaying and climbing the second pitch. I could not stand to see the slow mutilation of this ill-fated Douglas fir. Perhaps you can think of it as a mercy killing. For the record, I dearly love trees. THE MEMORY OF TREES. THE TREE OF LIFE.

In their own way, trees are better things than any animal or human that ever walked the face of the earth. When is the last time you were attacked or robbed by a tree? Do you have locks on your doors because trees exist?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'll have to second Ivan's thoughts here. The bottom felt 10a at hardest, and Pretty solid- I placed gear expecting hard moves, tehn just cruised it. But then I got higher to the wider section and slowed down quite considerably- fighting in and out of the back of that crack for fist-jams. I walked the #3 camalot up because I didn't have anything else bigger than hands with me. Felt like 5.10- up there.

If I were to do the climb again, I'd take cams from 1/2" to 4" (one each) and a double set of stoppers- this thing EATS large stoppers and I only had 1 set.
By Alison Conrad
Aug 25, 2009

I give this route 5.9. Bottom part was not 5.10d- cruiser hands. The upper wider part was a bit trickier that warrants a 5.9 rating. Fun and well protected. Not as grungy as it looks.
By Timothy
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Sep 5, 2012

Soft. 5.9. locker hand jams down low though
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A good climb overall and a great crack climb by Boulder Canyon standards, even if the wide part is a little dirty and wet. I agree with some others that this is more like 5.9+ or maybe 10a.