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Drive-By Crag
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Kaleidescope 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Monique Forestier
Page Views: 5,366
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Mark on Kaleidoscope, with the Sharma project in t...

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Description 

Among the most distinct "lines" at the Red, Kaleidescope climbs the brilliant, arching arete feature at the far right end of the Drive By crag. The route offers two unique sections: technical reaches up monolithic, square-cut panels, followed by pumping slopers and slaps up the ever steepening arete. Ultimately pump-managment is the challenge here, and the last bolt is often skipped in a mad dash for the chains.

Stick clip the first bolt and step off the boulder onto a mungy ledge. The first tricky section overcomes a leaning arete/dihedral with big moves from slopers. Move left after a series of long cranks along the arete, then mantle over a small roof to reach the juggy wall. Recently folks have moved far left to a good shake that was not used on the FA. Sequential pinches and slopers lead up and eventually right to a strenuous shake on the arete, just below the crux section. Big moves lead up the left side of the arete, past a difficult clip, and gymnastic footwork, culminating in a big slap to an obvious under-cling. Ride the belly of the beast past the last bolt, turn the lip, and sprint for good jugs at the anchor.

Location 

Far right end of the main Drive By crag (but way left of "Arachnophobia"). This is the furthest right route before the enormous amphitheater.

Protection 

~10 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.


Photos of Kaleidescope Slideshow Add Photo
Mark finishing the "slabby" opening move...
Mark finishing the "slabby" opening move...
Mark nearing the redpoint crux on Kaleidoscope.
Mark nearing the redpoint crux on Kaleidoscope.
Kaleidoscope
Kaleidoscope
Mark high on Kaleidoscope.
Mark high on Kaleidoscope.
Mark bearing down on Kaleidoscope.
Mark bearing down on Kaleidoscope.
Yeah, that's a line.
BETA PHOTO: Yeah, that's a line.
Kaleidescope, 13c
Kaleidescope, 13c

Comments on Kaleidescope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Palo
From: Bend, oregon
Mar 15, 2012

I was really disappointed to see people traversing off the route this fall. Yes, you can downclimb a bit on this route to a decent/almost sitdown, but I think it cuts the grade down to 13a. For shame.
By Blake Cash
Dec 28, 2012

Then the route's 13a and a 13c eliminate.