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Bugaboo Spire
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Kain Route (South Ridge) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Mr. and Mrs. A.H.MacCarthy, J.Vincent, C.Kain - Aug 1916
Page Views: 18,360
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 22, 2006

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Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Description 

By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner brings him to the base of a steep, curving crack which is ascended, leading to a short finger traverse (left) into a gully. Climb gully (10') to belay ledge behind gendarme. Thence a short climb to the summit, a second point of equal height at the N.E. being reached over a short but difficult bit of broken arete, in the middle section of which a 20' doubled rope is used to facilitate return.

The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.

Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.

Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Ice-axe and possibly crampons.


Photos of Kain Route (South Ridge) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base of the final belayed pitch
From the base of the final belayed pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climbe...
Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climbe...
Rock Climbing Photo: More vistas from the scrambling part of the route ...
More vistas from the scrambling part of the route ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 4th class intermediate ridge.
The 4th class intermediate ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wearing the latest in safety headgear, M-J Cross c...
Wearing the latest in safety headgear, M-J Cross c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Applebee Camp Info
BETA PHOTO: Applebee Camp Info
Rock Climbing Photo: Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP conributor K...
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP conributor K...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vista on the lower part of the route.
Vista on the lower part of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of...
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col.  Small crevasses and bergsh...
Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergsh...
Rock Climbing Photo: The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (rig...
BETA PHOTO: The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: Applebee Camp
Applebee Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the roped climbing
Start of the roped climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Route Beta
BETA PHOTO: Upper Route Beta
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the South Summit
View from the South Summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the lower roped pitches
Some of the lower roped pitches
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overview
BETA PHOTO: Route Overview
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Rock Climbing Photo: On the descent, traversing the pitch below the gen...
BETA PHOTO: On the descent, traversing the pitch below the gen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kain Route Map contour interval : 100 feet  Green ...
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route Map contour interval : 100 feet Green ...

Show All 28 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Kain Route (South Ridge) Add Comment
Show which comments
By MoonMountainMan
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 19, 2013

Here is a little video I took while soloing the Kain Route on The Bugaboo Spire on 8/15/13.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Sep 4, 2013

Absolutely killer video! And, the best way to do it.

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