Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bugaboo Spire
Select Route:
Divine Intervention T 
Kain Route (South Ridge) T 
North East Ridge T 

Kain Route (South Ridge) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Mr. and Mrs. A.H.MacCarthy, J.Vincent, C.Kain - Aug 1916
Page Views: 13,284
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Description 

By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner brings him to the base of a steep, curving crack which is ascended, leading to a short finger traverse (left) into a gully. Climb gully (10') to belay ledge behind gendarme. Thence a short climb to the summit, a second point of equal height at the N.E. being reached over a short but difficult bit of broken arete, in the middle section of which a 20' doubled rope is used to facilitate return.

The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.

Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.

Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Ice-axe and possibly crampons.


Photos of Kain Route (South Ridge) Slideshow Add Photo
From the base of the final belayed pitch
From the base of the final belayed pitch
Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
More vistas from the scrambling part of the route (taken on descent) Tony Tennessee and Fred Batliner.
More vistas from the scrambling part of the route ...
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of...
Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire <br />Photo by MP conributor Kevin Craig <br /> <br />White dots - Kain Route (south ridge) <br />Red dots - Rappel at Great Gendarme <br /> <br />In the distance, Vowell Glacier and Mount Conrad (Kain).
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP conributor K...
Vista on the lower part of the route.
Vista on the lower part of the route.
Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climber is in the lower right of the photo. The summit of Bugaboo is in the upper left of the photo.
Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climbe...
Applebee Camp Info
BETA PHOTO: Applebee Camp Info
Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col.  Small crevasses and bergshrunds.  Generally climbed unroped.
Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergsh...
The 4th class intermediate ridge.
The 4th class intermediate ridge.
A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (right) The Gendarme - looking down from near summit.
BETA PHOTO: The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (rig...
Applebee Camp
Applebee Camp
The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.
BETA PHOTO: A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.
Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (led in hob-nailed boots in 1916!) and the approximate route to summit
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (...
Kain Route Map <br />contour interval : 100 feet <br /> <br />Green - Kain Route <br />Blue - Northeast Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route Map contour interval : 100 feet Green ...
Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.
Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.
Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.
View from the South Summit
View from the South Summit
Start of the roped climbing
Start of the roped climbing
Route Overview
BETA PHOTO: Route Overview

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Kain Route (South Ridge) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mooner
From: Bountiful, UT
Aug 19, 2013

Here is a little video I took while soloing the Kain Route on The Bugaboo Spire on 8/15/13.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Sep 4, 2013

Absolutely killer video! And, the best way to do it.