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Bugaboo Spire
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Kain Route (South Ridge) T 
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Kain Route (South Ridge) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Mr. and Mrs. A.H.MacCarthy, J.Vincent, C.Kain - Aug 1916
Page Views: 13,429
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 22, 2006

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Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Description 

By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner brings him to the base of a steep, curving crack which is ascended, leading to a short finger traverse (left) into a gully. Climb gully (10') to belay ledge behind gendarme. Thence a short climb to the summit, a second point of equal height at the N.E. being reached over a short but difficult bit of broken arete, in the middle section of which a 20' doubled rope is used to facilitate return.

The above taken verbatim from the 1955 AAC publication "A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia" by James Monroe Thorington.

Conrad Kain considered this his hardest lead - although modern techniques and equipment has certainly knocked the edge off. His Mount Robson route remains quite an undertaking.

Descend the route via rappels and scrambling.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Ice-axe and possibly crampons.


Photos of Kain Route (South Ridge) Slideshow Add Photo
From the base of the final belayed pitch
From the base of the final belayed pitch
Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.
More vistas from the scrambling part of the route ...
More vistas from the scrambling part of the route ...
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of...
Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of...
Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP conributor K...
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire Photo by MP conributor K...
Vista on the lower part of the route.
Vista on the lower part of the route.
Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climbe...
Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climbe...
Applebee Camp Info
BETA PHOTO: Applebee Camp Info
Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col.  Small crevasses and bergsh...
Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergsh...
The 4th class intermediate ridge.
The 4th class intermediate ridge.
A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.
The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (rig...
BETA PHOTO: The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (rig...
Applebee Camp
Applebee Camp
The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The scrambling up to the roped pitches.
The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee
A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.
BETA PHOTO: A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.
Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (...
BETA PHOTO: Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (...
Kain Route Map contour interval : 100 feet  Green ...
BETA PHOTO: Kain Route Map contour interval : 100 feet Green ...
Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Crux pitch on the Kain route,
Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.
Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.
Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.
View from the South Summit
View from the South Summit
Start of the roped climbing
Start of the roped climbing
Route Overview
BETA PHOTO: Route Overview

Show All 27 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Kain Route (South Ridge) Add Comment
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By Mooner
From: Bountiful, UT
Aug 19, 2013

Here is a little video I took while soloing the Kain Route on The Bugaboo Spire on 8/15/13.
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Sep 4, 2013

Absolutely killer video! And, the best way to do it.