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k. The Slime Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Coprophagia T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Hooky T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Raindance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 
Wet Dream T 

k. The Slime Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.74928, -74.1749 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,968
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011
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Pete searching the Last Frontier for feet

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure between Laughing Man to V-3 MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons | next area: Sleepy Hollow


Major Features: The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.

This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.

Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.

Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.

Routes, left-to-right 

Last Frontier: 5.10, G
The Yellow Crack: 5.12, R-X
Bragg-Hatch: 5.10+, PG
Kligfield's Follies: 5.11+, PG
Cluney's Jollies: 5.12, R
Simple Suff: 5.10-, G (**)
Techno-Stuff: 5.12-, TR
Tangled Up and Blue, 5.8-
The Blue Stink: 5.3, PG
Hooky: 5.6-, PG
Yesterday: 5.10-, PG
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow: 5.11, R
Falled on Account of Strain: 5.10-, PG-R (**)
Wet Dream: 5.12-, R
April Showers: 5.11, PG
Golden Showers: 5.11, G-PG
Called On Account of Rain: 5.11+, R
Comedy In Three Acts: 5.11, PG (**)
Drop Zone: 5.12-, R
Pressure Drop: 5.11+, R
Frustration Syndrome: 5.10, G
??: 5.11b, R
The Stand: 5.11-, PG
Coprophagia: 5.10-, PG
Wasp: 5.9, PG
J. A. P.: 5.10, PG
Expedition to Nowhere: 5.10-, R
Sticky Gate: 5.3, PG
Mud Sweat and Tears: 5.10-, PG
Withering Heights: 5.11, PG-R
Moondance: 5.6, G-PG
Sundance: 5.6, PG
Ghostdance: 5.7, PG-R
Raindance: 5.5, G
Contradance: 5.6-, PG

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in k. The Slime Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for k. The Slime Wall:
Sundance   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Sticky Gate with Direct finish   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Wasp   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Simple Suff   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Falled on Account of Strain   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Last Frontier   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Frustration Syndrome   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Golden Showers   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Stand   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 75'   
April Showers   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Comedy In Three Acts   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Climb and Punishment   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kligfield's Follies   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Techno-Suff   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in k. The Slime Wall

Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Romano doing the low crux reach from the slot...

Kligfield's Follies 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall
Because of Dick Williams' rather superlative description of the difficulty of this route, and after coming to expect 5.11 and up Gunks climbs to be extremely involved and generally terrifying, I'd kept away from it for a long time. However I was psyched to discover that Kligfield's is, for the most part, a good ol' mostly vertical pump with relatively straight-forward gear... reminiscent of a funky granite corner or something you'd find in Eldorado Canyon.The line follows an arching crack syste...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of k. The Slime Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing on The Stand
Standing on The Stand
Rock Climbing Photo: The WASP / Slime Wall trail
BETA PHOTO: The WASP / Slime Wall trail
Rock Climbing Photo: A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the ...
A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: no Frustration on TR
no Frustration on TR
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous...
BETA PHOTO: Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous...

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