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k. The Slime Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
Wasp T 

k. The Slime Wall  


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Location: 41.74928, -74.1749 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,601
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011
Forecast:
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Mostly Cloudy
58° | 44°
Partly Cloudy
64° | 48°
Partly Cloudy
54° | 47°
Chance of Rain
57° | 48°
Overcast
59° | 46°
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Pete searching the Last Frontier for feet

Along the Cliff 

last area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons | next area: Sleepy Hollow

Description 

Major Features: The moniker of Slime Wall is really only apt in the early spring. As it is densest in harder routes, you're fairly likely to find solitude (+/- carriage-road traffic) this far down the cliff.

This section starts with Last Frontier's bombay-chimney-hand crack, which hangs over the cliff-side trail (don't let it eat you). It continues as more or less a continuous wall all the way to the slabby crack of WASP. I've included the Dance routes (Sundance, Moondance et al.); in this section because the most straightforward way to reach them is hugging the cliffline north of WASP.

Approach: There are several trails that head up to the cliff in this area. It's easiest to aim at the last one, which deposits you at the base of the easily-identifiable crack of WASP, and work leftwards from there.

Descent: Simple Suff, Comedy In Three Acts and Frustration Syndrome sport bolts at the top of first pitches; the latter can be used for The Stand.

Routes, left-to-right 

Last Frontier: 5.10, G
The Yellow Crack: 5.12, R-X
Bragg-Hatch: 5.10+, PG
Kligfield's Follies: 5.11+, PG
Cluney's Jollies: 5.12, R
Simple Suff: 5.10-, G (**)
Techno-Stuff: 5.12-, TR
Tangled Up and Blue, 5.8-
The Blue Stink: 5.3, PG
Hooky: 5.6-, PG
Yesterday: 5.10-, PG
Tomorrow and Tomorrow and Tomorrow: 5.11, R
Falled on Account of Strain: 5.10-, PG-R (**)
Wet Dream: 5.12-, R
April Showers: 5.11, PG
Golden Showers: 5.11, G-PG
Called On Account of Rain: 5.11+, R
Comedy In Three Acts: 5.11, PG (**)
Drop Zone: 5.12-, R
Pressure Drop: 5.11+, R
Frustration Syndrome: 5.10, G
??: 5.11b, R
The Stand: 5.11-, PG
Coprophagia: 5.10-, PG
Wasp: 5.9, PG
J. A. P.: 5.10, PG
Expedition to Nowhere: 5.10-, R
Sticky Gate: 5.3, PG
Mud Sweat and Tears: 5.10-, PG
Withering Heights: 5.11, PG-R
Moondance: 5.6, G-PG
Sundance: 5.6, PG
Ghostdance: 5.7, PG-R
Raindance: 5.5, G
Contradance: 5.6-, PG

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for k. The Slime Wall:
Sundance   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Sticky Gate with Direct finish   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tangled Up and Blue   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wasp   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Simple Suff   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Falled on Account of Strain   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Last Frontier   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Frustration Syndrome   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Golden Showers   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Stand   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 75'   
April Showers   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch   
Comedy In Three Acts   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kligfield's Follies   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Techno-Suff   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in k. The Slime Wall

Featured Route For k. The Slime Wall
Eric in the midst of things.

Falled on Account of Strain 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  NY : The Gunks : ... : k. The Slime Wall
Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'. P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of k. The Slime Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple stuff during Gunks Reunion '08.
Laura Smith beginning Simple Suff's not-so-simple ...
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of Strain.
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous route.
BETA PHOTO: Heading up WASP with wasp stings from our previous...
Standing on The Stand
Standing on The Stand
no Frustration on TR
no Frustration on TR
A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the rocks near The Slime Wall.
A young toad trying badly to camouflage among the ...

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