K) Extra Dry Vermouth  M9-

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Type:  Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  M9- [details] FA:  James Loveridge New Route:  Yes Season:  Winter Mixed + Drytool Submitted By:  James Loveridge on Nov 30, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Chimney, Shaken, Not Stirred, Extra Dry Vermou...

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Description 

This amazing route ascends the most improbable looking and continuously steep chunk of rock at the quarry. It is often bone dry but sometimes there is a smear at the slab at the bottom and the upper overhanging crack system is often choked with ice. Start under the left side of the huge hanging “Martini glass” shaped flake and climb straight up slab on small edges and delicate one tooth holds (in some years there is an ice smear to the left). Climb up and over the far left edge of the Martini flake then trend right under bulging headwall. Ascend headwall up into overhanging crack system and follow it to the anchors.

Location 

This route starts 6 feet right of Shaken, Not Stirred and 8 feet left of Martini. Despite all 3 routes rather close proximity, they do not share a single hold. The bolt hangers are standard Fixe on this route (as opposed to the double bent safe-clip bolt hangers used on Shaken…)

Protection 

11 QuickDraws for bolts.