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Kelly's Rock
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Zealot 

K-8 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Oldrid
Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: richard magill on Mar 30, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Dana Steck on K-8.
In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

This route is named "k-8" because it originally was the eighth route from the left side. Now it about the 11th or 12th, so things have changed a little.

Anyway, Todd Goss calls this "one of the best routes in Utah". Wow... strong statement! However, I am hard pressed to argue with him - I can't think of another one at the 11b grade that is as good as this.

Great pockets and edges through a couple of roofs, everything but the kitchen sink on this line.


Location 

Starts right on top of the big boulder in the middle of the crag. there are about 10 lines left of the big boulder. 2 lines leave the top of the boulder, this is the right most of the two.


Protection 

7 bolts to Anchors.



Photos of K-8 Slideshow Add Photo
Rob on point, Amber belaying on K-8
Rob on point, Amber belaying on K-8
Rob lowering of K-8 <br />
Rob lowering of K-8
Comments on K-8 Add Comment
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By McRae Williams
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Got on this route over the weekend; best i've done yet. The rock is unbelievable and the flow of the line is amazing. No real crux in my opinion, just stay with it and enjoy the climbing.

By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Dec 2, 2008

Bulletproof rock, fun moves, perfect holds. A little soft for the grade. I just wish it was longer!

By jhump
Mar 27, 2010

No real crux? Were we on the same route? If you climb this route, you will know where the crux is. I bet you can pick it out from the ground.

By ZachBradford
Apr 4, 2011

Bad beta may have created a definite crux. Every move can be done statically with 3 points on.
The roof can be tricky to negotiate but with a bit of patience, beta can be discovered that makes the movement pretty straight forward. (No throw involved)
I only say this so someone who avoids dynamic movement won't avoid getting on the route. The route is an excellent 11b, not the best in Utah but well worth the time.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2011

Been trying to come to terms with the 'best route in Utah' statement for years and just don't see it. In fact, the more I do this route the more I think Goss is either insane or sandbagging. It's super sharp with no hands rests all over the place. I'd call quite a few of the other routes at Kelly's more fun and it's not close to the best wall in Utah. It's not even the best wall in a walking 10 minute radius.

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 4, 2011

What is the best beta then to overcome the first roof? I got shut down there when I tried it.

By ZachBradford
Jul 6, 2011

Without saying more than some people want to hear, it involves a pretty blind reach over the lip of the roof(holds are good enough below roof you can feel around if necessary).... Establish on the holds then look for a high-step on the lip of the roof. Its not a great foothold, but trust it and it works. I'm 5' 7" and can reach all the holds to do the moves static.