|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas|
|Submitted By:||Ron Olsen on Aug 10, 2002|
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|Comments on Justin Alf Memorial Route||Add Comment|
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A climb with some good moves, but also some of the dirtiest rock in Boulder Canyon. This climb needs a good scrubbing before it will ever become popular.
The belay position at the start is precarious. You're on a slippery vegetated slope with no anchor, and Boulder Creek roaring 15' below. If the leader falls before the first clip, both leader and belayer will fall in the creek. A belay bolt at the start is really needed.
There's a great sequence of moves from the fourth to fifth bolts; work up left and back right for the easiest line.
After the sixth bolt, the leader is confronted with a choice: angle up left in a shallow corner with a little pine tree and lichen-covered rock that looks as if it's never been climbed (with no bolts to mark the way); or angle up right past two bolts on cleaner rock on Gish.
My partner opted for the Gish variation. I think most climbers, not knowing where the route goes, would make the same choice. This corner also needs a thorough scrubbing and perhaps a bolt to indicate that the route really goes left at this point.
At a ledge below the final headwall, my partner spotted bolts off to the left and angled back on route. The final headwall has a little pine tree sticking out, rock that is completely lichen covered, and some very hard moves. The thin face above the little tree felt about 10d to 11a.
My partner belayed from a good ledge at the top and brought me up. We then rappelled with a 70m rope, which was just long enough to get all the way back to the ground without having to stop at the Gish anchor 30' off the deck.
Bob and Vaino, you guys have put up some great routes in Boulder Canyon, and we're all thankful for them. This route, however, needs some more work before it approaches the standards of your other contributions.
By Michael Amato
Jul 18, 2005
|Some fun moves, but the start as well as the finish may warrant an "s" rating. Oh, and add a couple of letter grades for lichen-impaired seeing and breathing, not to mention hand and foot holds.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|You can continue up and left past the merge with Gish on 2.5-3" gear and hit the summit of the rock. Improvise and escape down to a bolted anchor somewhere and take a few raps to the ground. This route is a little harder and dirtier than Gish and has more suspect rock.|