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 ADVANCED
Courthouse Butte
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A Day in Court T 
Coyote Tower T 
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 
Justice of the Peace T 
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Justice of the Peace 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA: McDonald, Daniel, I.Shaffer FFA: J.Snyder, Z.Harrison 4.13.2013
New Route: Yes
Season: All Spring and Fall Best
Page Views: 1,115
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Apr 25, 2013

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Wild! E Frye leaving the roof.

Description 

Justice of the Peace climbs a large dihedral system out a large roof and lastly onto the beautiful headwall of the Northwestern Buttress on Courthouse Butte. Shares the same summit as the infamous “A Day in Court”. Originally established as an aid route, the route now goes free with surprising amounts of quality clean crack climbing, striking face climbing as well as a techy crux. Memorable pitches featuring everything from face, tips, hands and yes… offwidth. Luxurious belays and a remarkable finish makes Justice of the Peace one of Sedona’s overall great quality free routes.

Historical and FFA Info: The FA team established an A2+ route that involved sections of thin aid as well as a direct finish that involved long sections of hooking on questionable rock. After initial exploratory attempts at freeing the original and direct finish it was decided that a free variation would be necessary to reach the summit. The addition of free bolts and discovery of a balance traverse sets summiting parties below an unforgettable summit pitch. Position yourself on the summit of the stunning buttress for a well-earned view of The San Francisco Peaks.

P1 Traverse in from bolted belay and clip the awkward aid bolt, climb through a thin crux to hands to a bolted belay. For Free Var. extend belay below block to better protect for next pitch. 5.11-

P2 From extended anchor, clip fixed pin for rope direction, and mantle block next to belay. Clip a bolt and climb the boulder problem crux of the route. Plug your way up corner and into beautiful tips to wide hands splitter on large pillar. 2 bolt belay above splitter, hang out on comfy belay. 5.11+

P3 Climb the always necessary gently overhung offwidth through fingers and thin hands to large roofs above. Clip second and third bolt (avoid the first to prevent rope drag), and push yourself through the “man-eater roofs” to thoughtful block climbing to a bolted belay below “the roof”. Save a #.5 in a pod for your exit. 5.10+/.11-

P4 Leave the belay, clip bolt below “the roof” and carefully mantle onto a foot ledge, be courteous of the fragile blocks to the climbers left, they’re sensitive. Put on your roof-traverse party pants and follow the tips and fingers Sedona splitter out the horizontal roof. Pull the roof, clip a bolt and climb to a 2 bolt Free Var. anchor on an aręte. DO NOT climb to aid anchor above ledge. 5.10+. Classic.

P5 Traverse directly right of the belay into the “JB Honorary Traverse” and hope the wind isn’t blowing too hard. Make some slow balance moves across large sloping foot ledge past some gear in a flake to a bolt below a flake, bust the short boulder problem, clip 3 more bolts, and climb to a 2 bolt belay on a cocktail ledge in the center of the headwall. Leader mentality on both end of the rope. 5.10

P6 Climb beautiful and high quality face climbing past 2 bolts and gear through red and white banded headwall to a right leaning tips to fingers splitter. Bust your last move and finish on hands through a short roof. Build a gear anchor. 5.11-

Descent: Scramble up 3rd class terrain 100 feet to true summit. Look for the “largest tree” on top. Locate a two bolt rap station just below North side. Make a Double 70M rappel to a large black varnished ledge below and center of the “JB Honorary Traverse”. Make a second long and steep Double 70M rappel to a blocky ledge. Final rappel can be done with a Single 70M rope. The second rap is very long, with 60Ms requiring easy down climbing to the last rap anchor. 70M recommended. Watch for loose rock when pulling your rope!!

Location 

Justice of the Peace starts in the large shady dihedral system capped by a large roof on the NW corner of Courthouse Butte. Park at the large trail head for Bell Rock Pathway just North of Bell Rock. Walk towards the North side of Courthouse Butte, after briefly walking East follow a faint trail system South towards the large talus slope below the route. Walk past several mud patties and rock circles and begin walking up talus slope on a faint and loose climbers trail. Locate first belay near cool featured pockets above slabs.

Protection 

Double:70M Ropes
Doubles: .6"-3" (Red #1 C3- #3 C4)
Single: 4" (#4 C4)
Runners
Quickdraws


Photos of Justice of the Peace Slideshow Add Photo
Cullen on the P5 traverse
Cullen on the P5 traverse
Top of Pitch 2, looking down the pillar splitter
Top of Pitch 2, looking down the pillar splitter
Justice of the Peace,Courthouse Butte
Justice of the Peace,Courthouse Butte
Taking a moment to absorb the vortex on 12.21.12
Taking a moment to absorb the vortex on 12.21.12
Looking up from near the base.  Yes it's steep!
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from near the base. Yes it's steep!
Down from the top of pitch 2
Down from the top of pitch 2
Z.Harrison hiking out after the FFA 4.13.13
Z.Harrison hiking out after the FFA 4.13.13
J.Snyder taking a first look out "The Roof"
J.Snyder taking a first look out "The Roof"
View looking North from under "The Roof". Peaks are just visible beyond Gibraltar Rock
View looking North from under "The Roof". Peaks ar...
Justice climbs the large dihedral system and onto the headwall <br />
Justice climbs the large dihedral system and onto ...
Moving through to the other side.
Moving through to the other side.
Steep rappel
Steep rappel
Justice of the Peace Topo
Justice of the Peace Topo
Men and muscle post FFA 4.13.13
Men and muscle post FFA 4.13.13
J.Snyder jugging an early attempt. Dec.2012
J.Snyder jugging an early attempt. Dec.2012
Tap it in
Tap it in
Justice of the Peace
Justice of the Peace
Pitch 4 roof traverse
Pitch 4 roof traverse
The JB Honorary Traverse
The JB Honorary Traverse
Doing work on the 6th pitch headwall
Doing work on the 6th pitch headwall

Comments on Justice of the Peace Add Comment
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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Apr 27, 2013

this looks awesome!
By Keith Beckley
May 14, 2013

Fantastic Sedona route! Likely the best route Ive done on the red stone in the area. Great cracks and exciting delicate face sections. Highly recommended. Hope that there is a second bolt installed on the crux boulder problem pitch before you attempt this beauty. Have fun!