This devious line lurks just right of Out of Darkness (5.11a/b). Begin as for Try to be Hip and Out of Darkness, clipping the first bolt (shared by all three routes. Traverse up and right with relative ease to the arete and the 3rd bolt The first cruxy section comes moving past the 5th bolt, where two potential options will appear viable from below. Strenuos liebacks and underclings complimented by insecure feet lead to a good shake before the final upper crux, near the convergance with Out of Darkness. More sidepulls and crimps lead to a final powerful move to good jugs and the anchor.
Immediately right of "Out of Darkness", or the first fully bolted line right of "Try to Be Hip"
Bolts. The anchor on this route is shared with Out of Darkness, and could be improved. Currently it consists of two good bolts joined by several layers of tat, and three aluminum rap rings. Four quick links or two 8" lengths of chain and two quick links would make this anchor much better.
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 20, 2007
I gave this one 3 stars because 1) the holds were covered with dirt when I did it (due to neglect), and 2) it just wasn't that fun. It was super challenging, and I felt great about my effort when I finished, but unlike Try to Be Hip, I didn't enjoy much of the movement while I was actually doing it. Also, the route seemed to bolted either for a 6'4" climber, or for a pre-hung draws, as nearly every bolt was about 6" too far to clip from the obvious stance.
Otherwise the rock was stellar.
This one seems to me to be the hardest of the bolted 12a's on the west side (compared to TTBH, WT, FCP).