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The Capstan
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Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

Just Right 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Jim Holloway, 1973
Page Views: 3,728
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 23, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Finishing up Just Right. CLASSIC.

www.olmecappare...

Description 

This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.

Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.

Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been done at V10 from the low start by Skip Guerin and Ben Moon. There used to be a perfect cheater stone in place for this problem, but it was built into the retaining wall next to the boulder. Now people either stack up pads or make a small cairn of sorts to gain the holds.

Muckle on to the opposing sidepulls, lunge for the pocket, kick your feet back on, and crimp your way over the slabby lip. A Chris Hill problem, Just Wrong, hits the pocket with the left hand instead.

Should you despair in your bid for summit glory bear in mind that Colin Lantz did this thing in Tevas with a lit cigarette in his mouth on a greasy summer evening.

That should light a bit of a fire under your ass....

Protection 

A crashpad and a cheater stone.


Photos of Just Right Slideshow Add Photo
The hard top section.
The hard top section.
M.Z. moving through the bottom section.
M.Z. moving through the bottom section.
Only the beginning of Just Right.
Only the beginning of Just Right.
Just Right.
BETA PHOTO: Just Right.
Setup for the pod move.
Setup for the pod move.
The feet cut sometimes.
The feet cut sometimes.

Comments on Just Right Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 1, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 16, 2002

I was under the impression Jim Holloway did the FA on this Matt. Am I wrong?

Secondly, the low start you mention ... that begins off the thin sidepull/underclings right?

Anyone done it from the sds? There was some banter about this on the FRB site recently, but no info.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 16, 2002

Also ... PB's guide says Chris Hill's Just Wrong fires directly from the first two opposing crimps to the pocket w/out the use of the higher "seam" hold for your left hand.

Doing that move as a crossover seems unlikely. Any clues?

Thanks
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 18, 2002

So is the obvious large edge out left off route? I haven't tried the problem yet, but it seems like you'd naturally want to shoot out to IT instead.
By COrockclimber
Feb 18, 2002

I'm pretty sure that edge is not going to help you land the throw to the pocket. You will probably want to use the pincher/corner/seam hold to throw for the pocket.
By COrockclimber
Feb 25, 2002

Then again, Bob Horan says Just Right skips the pocket altogether ... whatever. It's a great line.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2002

...the obvious and classic way to do just right is WITH the pocket. after that, maybe someone should try to do it w/out the pocket. however, none of the described lines (including just right v7, just wrong v8 and direct just right v9/10) skips the pocket ALTOGETHER...
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 2, 2004

FA was definitely Jim Holloway. You can check out a nice photo of him on the problem on John Gill's website at the link below. Check out the absence of chalk on the problem.

128.pair.com/r3d4k7/JH-Ament2....

I've heard of Chris Hill's Just Wrong version but I've never seen it repeated. I did a problem to the left a couple of years ago called So Wrong, maybe V7. I'll post it as a new problem. BTW - It was flip flops and without cigarette. I haven't had one of those in a long time.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 2, 2004

A couple of years ago I did a variation to the left of Just Right and called it So Wrong. It's maybe V7 or so. I'm pretty sure this was an undone line; at least CG had not heard of it being done. It could be considered a separate line in that the start and finish are completely different, except that you do use two holds on Just Right. If you're standing in the road and looking at the Capstan it takes the direct line straight up the face to the prow between South Crack/South Overhang and Just Right. Here's the beta - Michael Jordan jump start off the ground to the two hold complex that contains the left-hand triangular pinch hold that is reached by making the first dynamic move up and left after the starting holds of Just Right (left hand goes in the in-cut edge you heel hook on after getting the pocket on Just Right). Now punch straight up to the next left hand hold used on Just Right and match on this complex. This is where it gets interesting, and veers sharply up and slightly left away from the Just Right exit. Cross through to a small lay-away'ish edge with the right. Grab something really small for the left and pop up and left around the prow exiting onto positive holds that are used as footholds when soloing off South Crack to meet the down climb ramp used to get off Just Right. Exit right on the aforementioned down climb.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004

Ament '84 H.O.B. says FA of Just Right 1973 by Jim Holloway.
By Pinklebear
Dec 29, 2009

It's not Chris' bad -- it was mine; I posted the original description. Sorry I didn't fix that sooner.

--Matt
By misha zavalov
From: Boulder, Co.
Dec 30, 2009

Thanks, Pinklebear.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 26, 2011

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Feb 26, 2011

I saw that knee!!! haha:-) nice send!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 15, 2011



More Capstan video, see mountainsandwater.com/2011/03/... for details.
By D@n
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2012

Thanks for the videos, Mr. Beal. I'm looking forward to trying the low start.

Question about the topout: The way I've done it before is to have the hold above the pocket with the right hand and have my left hand at the pinch on the left side of the crack near the lip. The crux for me is then to put my right foot in the pocket and rock over it with my left hand on some very thin flakes on the slab above. This really makes for a rather committing topout. I can't say if this way would be easier than what PB did in the video as I haven't done it his way. Can anyone comment on if this would be a simple variation or something else altogether?