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Just move to Cottonwood AZ - Need partners!
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By jandrews
From Cottonwood, AZ
May 7, 2014

Hi all.

I'm in the partner finder, but here's the long short version:

-Cut my teeth climbing in NC, but have logged time on NC, WV, VA, WY, AZ, CA, and NV rock.

-Started climbing in 2006 TR and sport. Trad in 2007. Leading to low 5.10s trad, low 5.11s sport onsight. High 5.10s and high 5.11s with time to work it.

Boulder to V2/V3 onsight. Up to V5 with time to work it.

-Have done easy aid (A1/C1) in NC and CA (Yosemite). Multi-day routes in CA. Also, backcountry climbing in NC and WY.

-Love ice, haven't had a chance to do as much as I want, but have the gear.

-No experience on mixed terrain.

Have a double trad rack and everything needed for all but the most extensive aid racks. Very familiar with leading, rigging, self-rescue techniques (escape belay, rope ascension, 3:1/5:1 rigs, rescue of injured leader, multi-pitch rescue rappell, etc.)

PM me on here or reply to this thread. I'll be watching. Would love to connect with some regular AZ climbers in the Cottonwood/Prescott/Flagstaff/Sedona area and start getting up on some of the local rock!


FLAG
By Tom Nyce
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 7, 2014
Down low, before the Y and the Railroad couloirs separate.

I'm a Flagstaff climber, sometimes in need of a partner. I rock climb mostly at Oak Creek Overlook, and Paradise Forks.
How is your endurance? On Sunday, I'm doing a two thousand foot+ snow climb on the north side of Humphreys Peak, along with a three mile approach. No ropes involved. Just Ice axe and basic self arrest skills needed. I'm checking out conditions for the possibilities of a ski descent in the near future. The Abineau trailhead is about 40 minutes north of downtown Flag.


FLAG
By jandrews
From Cottonwood, AZ
May 8, 2014

Endurance is good. Being honest I did just move from a city at 450ft. to Cottonwood here at 3500ft. and Flag is higher still.

That said, I have all the appropriate gear and clothing and some experience in altitude snowfield negotiation (primarily in the Cirque of the Towers WY and Tuolumne Meadows). If you need a partner on short notice or would like one for safety reasons, I'm happy to sign up (if I can make it work with the rest of my schedule - I normally plan further in advance).

What's the route? I'd like to do homework if you're interested in having me along and if I can make it.


FLAG
By Tom Nyce
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 8, 2014
Down low, before the Y and the Railroad couloirs separate.

The approach trail is described in various books as the "Abineau and Bearjaw Trails." I recommend picking up "50 Favorite Hikes, Flagstaff and Sedona" by Cosmic Ray. You'll see it even in grocery stores! Certainly any sport store in Cottonwood will have it. It is cheap, but good. The trails I'm talking about are the first ones described in the book. The more important thing is the map of how to get to the trailhead. It has all the mileages, and forest service roads etc.
So, assuming you get to the trailhead (which is about 8500 ft elevation), the plan would be: hike on the trail for about 3 miles, to get up to 10,500 ft. That is the upper end of the official hiking trail, and is a beautiful alpine area (considering that it is AZ). The sensitive tundra-like area above that is off limits, unless there is snow cover (which there is right now). So, we'll continue up (via a moderately angled snow chute), about 2100 feet more elevation, to the summit of Humphreys Peak (if all goes well).
We just had some snow last night. As soon as the clouds clear, I post a picture of the chutes (I live north of the San Fransisco Peaks).


FLAG
By Tom Nyce
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 8, 2014
Down low, before the Y and the Railroad couloirs separate.

The cloud cover hasn't budged, so I'll post a picture from three weeks ago. What appears to be the lowest snowline is the top of the summer hiking trail (about 10,500 feet). There are three obvious chutes above that. We usually take the upper one (third from the right).

San Fransisco Peaks, from the north. The prominent chutes are directly above the top of the Abineau trail.
San Fransisco Peaks, from the north. The prominent chutes are directly above the top of the Abineau trail.


FLAG
By jandrews
From Cottonwood, AZ
May 8, 2014

Looks like a good time. I am available. You should have an email with my contact info and we can arrange logistics further.


FLAG
By Matt Greving
From San Diego & Phoenix
May 24, 2014
Mid-climb on Goliath in Sedona

Hi jandrews, I sent you a PM. If you're interested in climbing around Flagstaff, Isolation Canyon or Jack's Canyon Sunday (May 25) or Monday (May 26) - let me know. I have a full (triple) trad rack and have been leading single/multi trad up to 5.9 for 18 months in various areas of California, Nevada, Utah and Arizona. I have been leading sport routes up to 10b for about the same amount of time.

Cheers,
Matt
480-694-1095


FLAG


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