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Just Like Nebraska 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Jeff Peterson, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 26, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Just Like Nebraska and Zee Eliminator.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the far rightside of the Bowling Alley a 150 feet up and right from the large ponderosa tree near the road. Hike up the short gully and look for a line of bolts shooting up a slab to a roof. This is the route. Climb up past the first two bolts and reach a good ledge. Climb past three bolts on a clean slab (cool slab moves) and crank up through a left-facing corner. Make a hard move over the small overhang (crux) and climb up the nice face to the anchor. This is a good route that climbs a lot better than it looks! A nice addition to the cliff and a great place for a late afternoon workout!


Protection 

Nine clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



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By Jeff Peterson
Jun 29, 2003

I was lucky enough to get to try this route with the fa's the day after it was bolted. It is a good route with a trickier slab than meets the eye and a technical little roof. Good people too!

By Patrick Higgins
Jan 25, 2004

Really fun route, but stuff is still breaking off. Be careful after the last bolt! When I was belaying, my partner's (rather large) foothold broke off and landed one foot to the left of me. Scary! The start is pretty loose, too, and I even managed to break a small crystal I was using as a finger hold on the slab. Once this things sees a little more traffic and gets cleaned up, it will make a great addition to the canyon. Very sustained, yet various types of moves.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Aug 12, 2008

This is a pretty nice route, and its proximity to the road makes it a good project for short late-summer days. The slab moves before the crux--around the sixth bolt--are tricky and interesting. Here's my crux beta: after clipping the seventh, step up to the good right foot and match the arete undercling (this may break off eventually) to get the left hand on it. Now reach off straight to the right; there is a somewhat invisible poor whitish quartz sidepull there. Using this you can stand on your right foot. Ignore the bolt at your face; clip it after the move. Pause a moment and throw with the right hand to get the jug as you are falling outward. If you catch it, you're done. It seems pretty clean as of late 2009.