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Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete 
Baja Breakdown 
Barefoot in Barbados 
Certain Death 
Chickenhead Holiday 
Cold Duck 
Comfort Zone 
Disco Captain 
Disco Chicken 
Disco Duck 
Disco Lizard 
Flirtin' Death 
Flown the Coop 
Gritman's Traverse 
Head On 
Just Hanging Out 
Losing My Religion  
Mantels to Mazatlan 
On the Waterfront 
Seams Like the Seashore 
Thin Slab 
Tijuana Donkey Show 
Waterfront Cave 

Just Hanging Out 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Larry Carrol and Tom Burris, 1978
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 26, 2007
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Follow chickenheads with fun mantles and two really bad bolts(not one as in the Ruckman topo)supplemented with small nuts and cams through an overlap and into a flake and crack system with fun jamming.


This is on the middle tier of the east side of the Waterfront and can be approached from Disco Duck or from the ledges and gully above and left of Paranoia Streak. You can also walk over from Touchup with a little exposed scrambling. The route proper starts left of Beam Me Up Scotty but we didn't feel comfortable gaining the ledge where it starts so we climbed out of the gully right and traversed over to the climb. This is an exposed way to do it so we roped up and clipped some gear but I'm sure there is a better way to get over there.


two bolts, standard rack with long runners

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By tenesmus
Sep 26, 2007

So, there has to be a better way to get over there because its a bit exposed for one or two moves gaining that slab.

Those bolts are full value museum quality. The first is a buttonhead in a dark water streak that shimy's around when you jiggle the hanger and the second is a corroding 1/4" stud that has a great tcu placement just above it.

I write this to warn the 5.8 climber because you'll need to be comfortable with that kind of gear until it gets updated. Otherwise, you can sew it up. When it does get updated it'll be a fun climb.

If you are an adventurous 5.8 climber, you could do both pitches of Cranial Prophylactic and then walk over with a little scrambling to this one. Or Touchup (9)and then walk over. Or Disco Duck (.10a) and then up that gully.

Oct 24, 2013

Fun. Needs two bolts replaced very badly. Bring new webbing and knife to take crusty stuff at horn anchor.