|Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Delicate slab climbing on excellent rock. This route is less sustained than Cornflakes but requires 20 feet of challenging climbing on very smooth rock. Breath-taking.
Climb past the first 3 tightly-spaced bolts of Captain Crunch. At the third bolt, traverse left for 6 feet and then head nearly straight up past several bolts. There is a clear crux encounter around the fifth bolt, as the route moves through an obvious, polished area of rock.
The route starts about 30 feet left of a large pine tree which leans against the wall that is left of Chouinard Special and Lieback.
Contributors Note: I have not led this route.
The route's only protection comes in the form of bolts. There is a bolted belay at the top of the route.
It is possible to top-rope this route using two ropes by first leading both pitches of Lieback and then rappelling down and left to the top of Cornflakes/Just for Kicks.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Dec 11, 2011
Hmmm, where to start, first it's "Just for Kxis". Basically this is an alternative start to bypass the X rated start of Cornflakes. At the third bolt of Captain Crunch make a six foot traverse to the left (10cd). This puts you on Cornflakes. Up at the fifth bolt go either left or straight up. Left is the real nice runout face climbing (5.9R)of Cornflakes up a few more bolts to the belay. This is 8 bolts total and is the usual variation. Or, at the fifth bolt go straight up and across the polished blank glass to meet up with Cornflakes again as it curves back right toward the belay. This is progressively harder slab climbing with a real bitch of a move at the seventh bolt. How hard is this blank patch? Harder than the crux of Captain Crunch, or any 11+ or 12ab crux found at Dome Rock. A third variation traverses right at the fifth bolt over to Captain Crunch (11a).
The bolts for the hard glassy part were put in on rap, as was the chopped bolt at the end of the left traverse. The current second bolt of Captain Crunch is a retro added some years ago by persons unknown.
|By Guy Keesee|
From: Moorpark, CA
Dec 23, 2013
Randy... thank you for a good discription of the "Root" ....
After getting tossed off the blank section over and over again, I was thinking WTF is up with that?
Def harder than any 12 that has ever smacked me down....
And the large Pine Tree used as a marker for Kern Slab... its ready to fall over... right on to the face!