Just for Goobs
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This is one of the longer routes at Marshfield, and probably the easiest by grade. It roughly follows the slabby arete that delineates the right-side slabs from the more broken middle portions of the cliff.
Pitch 1: Up the slab and over an overlap with a pin under it, then up more slab and right to the short left-facing wall before the tree ledge. After surmounting the wall wherever convenient, head up the edge past a tricky spot (with tricky gear and some unpleasant fall potential), onto the next slab, past two bolts and up to a good two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Move left to the arete, and then up this, past two bolts to a nice ledge and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Unobvious moves up off the ledge to 4th-class slab, heading for the handcrack in the wall above. Then go up the handcrack to another two-bolt anchor with rap rings and old webbing.
Location: From the normal approach trail, head climber's right along the base of the cliff, descending to the bottom of the slabs below the high-grade wall. The start is just as you start ascending again, at a left-trending flared seam.
Descent: Rap off the anchor, aiming for the brushy ledge at the bottom of the laser-cut dihedral to climber's left. Then either use the fixed lines/anchors that access the High-Grade wall, or scramble down and left and make two more slabby rappels. There are many fixed lines and anchors on this part of the cliff. A single 60 m rope should get you down with some careful route-picking.
|Comments on Just for Goobs
|By Derek Doucet|
Sep 24, 2012
Ah, man...you spoiled my onsight attempt with the deluge of beta spray...
Sep 30, 2012
Hmmm... apparently Mountain Project isn't as easy to use as I thought... I've even got a picture from the top, if you're still projecting this.