This is one of the longer routes at Marshfield, and probably the easiest by grade. It roughly follows the slabby arete that delineates the right-side slabs from the more broken middle portions of the cliff.
Pitch 1: Up the slab and over an overlap with a pin under it, then up more slab and right to the short left-facing wall before the tree ledge. After surmounting the wall wherever convenient, head up the edge past a tricky spot (with tricky gear and some unpleasant fall potential), onto the next slab, past two bolts and up to a good two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Move left to the arete, and then up this, past two bolts to a nice ledge and a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Unobvious moves up off the ledge to 4th-class slab, heading for the handcrack in the wall above. Then go up the handcrack to another two-bolt anchor with rap rings and old webbing.
Location: From the normal approach trail, head climber's right along the base of the cliff, descending to the bottom of the slabs below the high-grade wall. The start is just as you start ascending again, at a left-trending flared seam.
Descent: Rap off the anchor, aiming for the brushy ledge at the bottom of the laser-cut dihedral to climber's left. Then either use the fixed lines/anchors that access the High-Grade wall, or scramble down and left and make two more slabby rappels. There are many fixed lines and anchors on this part of the cliff. A single 60 m rope should get you down with some careful route-picking.
|By Derek Doucet|
Sep 24, 2012
Ah, man...you spoiled my onsight attempt with the deluge of beta spray...
Sep 30, 2012
Hmmm... apparently Mountain Project isn't as easy to use as I thought... I've even got a picture from the top, if you're still projecting this.
|By Andrew Mertens|
From: Hanover, NH
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The second pitch has some loose stacked blocks on the arete, and some car-sized blocks they are stacked on seem detached from the cliff. Don't place gear in the cracks formed by the blocks! You can mostly avoid climbing on them and the climbing is pretty easy by them, but my partner accidentally knocked one of the stacked blocks off.
Other than that, the route's very fun and varied, and better than some more popular routes of the same grade, like Funhouse to Upper Refuse on Cathedral.