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Start at the same spot as Are You Hard Enough?. Lieback up the left slanting crack to reach a high first bolt (optional gear, fingers or hands I think??) Move right and up the face to get positioned under the roof. Make some cool moves pulling the roof and then fight the pump as you climb to the anchors.
9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor rap
1-2" gear optional.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 29, 2013
The first bolt is almost 30 feet up and it's 5.10 climbing to get there. A single rack from fingers to hands would be recommended. You can even get in a #4 camalot at the first roof, instead of using the old rusty piton.
|By Simon W|
Mar 25, 2014
Not sure if we did the same start, but I did the variation that starts to the right, and then traverses left to gain the roof.
Probably not quite 30 feet up at the first bolt that, but you would still wreck yourself if you fell. It's a ~5.9 undercling move to get where you can clip the bolt.
Looked like the only place to get gear in was for the left start variation.
Hard to clean if you do this variation, but the anchor is mussies so you can lower and clean.. Long swing at the end!
That said. Great climb! You turn the roof in an unusual way!
There is an X'd loose block under the roof. I tried to trundle it, but it wouldn't go.