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If you're going to make the trek to the Valley of Shaddai then this route is a must while you're there. Climb the left facing dihedral for about 35' to a nice ledge and a brief rest before launching into the harder climbing. Follow an obvious vertical crack that ranges in size from finger to hands with nice jamming and face holds. After about 90' of climbing the crack traverses almost straight left for an exciting finish to the anchors.
This route is the obvious left facing corner to a crack just left of Cliptomaniac.
A set of wires and small cams up to a #3 Camalot. Two bolt anchor at the top (Cliptomaniac shares this anchor).
|By Mark van Eijk|
Sep 3, 2011
This route is the bee's knees!!! Relentless and surprising, it seems like it changes character for every move along its (considerable) length. What appears at first to be a straightforward hand-and-finger crack quickly turns into an all-out battle requiring delicate edging, stemming, smearing, and a powerful juggy traverse (plus the expected and excellent hand and finger jamming). So far I've only tried it on toprope but it seems like it protects well throughout with good rests on edges between the cruxes. Definitely a slog to get to, definitely do it anyways. Seriously.
|By Mike Teschke|
From: North Vancouver
Aug 19, 2012
It's the crack to the right of Cliptomaniac... It's pretty obvious though. AWESOME fun!
The McLane guidebook suggest bringing two ropes to lower from the anchors, one 70m rope will work perfectly fine.