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Parking Lot Rock - East
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Just Another Pretty Face 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rhodes
Page Views: 2,976
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 6, 2004
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Just Another Pretty Face

Description 

This is the all-bolted line near the south end of the east face. The line on this route meanders, so be relaxed as to your interpretation of the line. Don't go straight from 1 bolt to the next. The first 2 bolts require a little leftward zagging, and then you traverse right under the roof band. Get on top of the roof band and traverse left. Finally pick your smear, and head on up to the chains. A smearing climb amidst a sea of edging.


Protection 

9 draws for the climb, 2 more for the anchors and a coupld of long runners.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2011
By Blitzo
Oct 24, 2006

Good Route!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007

Rumor had it that mid-way was the crux. Personally it got my attention right from the start. Going straight up to the first bolt will leave you stranded with no place to go albeit protected. Try clipping bolt or moving back down and left before moving upward to overlaps. Fun route with sketchy movements thought low angle, yet scary mid-section. Fun to do while in area especially when you don' climb slabs.

10 bolts to chain anchors.

By Clint Ballard
From: Greeley, CO
Jun 13, 2008

I really enjoyed this route. 10d

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I agree w/Susan. Being a chicken, I actually got in a nut enroute to the first bolt. It really only helps with like 2 moves but if you aren't a slab guru it is reassuring to have! A great route.

By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Wow what a fun scary climb! The first 3 bolts are scary as hell, then take a long break on top of the chickenhead before scrambling out onto the crux slab. The rest is easy.

By ColinP
Sep 7, 2009

A great mix-bag of climbing techniques: mini-crack, to undercling, over small roof, to smearland. I slipped in a small cam below and left of the first bolt. Once over the small roof, traverse down and left two steps, it's smearin' time.

By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 18, 2010

Solid 10d. Lead this on 9/13/2010 having just returned moments ago from a 5hr stint in the ER at Burly.

Two distinct 10d cruxes seperated by lots of 10c climbing. The opening sequence is akin to solving a Rubicks-Cube. The upper-crux is just damn cruel.

By Sam Perkins
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This is such a ridiculously fun line. But if you don't trust your smears, you won't be going anywhere on this! Just keep calm and let your rubber do the work.

By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Aug 11, 2011

sam-- that's what she said.

By zoso
Aug 12, 2011

lame

By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Aug 13, 2011

yup.