|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Crawford & Fred Knapp circa 1989|
|Submitted By:||Steve Annecone on Aug 8, 2002|
|Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Just Another Boy's Climb||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Joe Collins
Apr 16, 2004
|Great route! I don't know about the finishing crack being 5.10... as pumped as I was after the bolted section, it felt like 5.11. After onsighting through the bolted section, I pumped out here. Its definitely not 5.10 in the sense of the finish to a hard sport climb being "just 5.10", so you can run it out to the anchors. The gear is critical, and Steve's gear list is more accurate than the Rossiter guide. It's hard and kind of in-your-face, and you are way pumped after pulling the "crux" at the last bolt.|
By Stefan Griebel
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great route Fred! What an amazing find! From the ground you can't see any of the jugs, or the crack at the top, and yet this route is sustained and continuous with a very distinct crux at the last bolt. Hand traversing across and up the steep crack was awesome. 3 stars for sure.
I'll agree with the other posters about the pump-factor, but if you get the feet right, you can get a bit of a rest at the bottom of the final crack. Not much rest, but maybe enough to fire on up to the anchors.
My 60m rope reached the ground with 15' to spare.
By adam wibby
Mar 18, 2009
|I'd say you want a #0.5, #0.75 and #1 for gear in that order, maybe even a red Alien, rack on your right side for ease of placement since you hang on your left arm. I have no idea where a two would go? Make sure to clip the chains before turning the roof or the rope drag is heinous. Oh and it don't count if you don't turn the roof, and the crack traverse is like 9+, you're just so damn pumped it feels like 10+. FUN!|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 14, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
|Forget bringing four cams. Plug a 0.75 in halfway along the crack and avoid the pump. The traverse is pretty easy.|
By Ben Sachs
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|This goes easily as 1 pitch from the ground with some runners down low. Only 1 cam (0.75) is needed if you trust the pins. First 2 bolts are ancient, rusty time bombs with possibly aluminum hangers.... Very fun route.|
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 14, 2015
In your face once you leave the ledge, good value for the grade!
Works great as a single pitch, helpful to put a very long sling on the intermediate belay anchor (I used one shoulder length sling plus a long quickdraw) and another long (shoulder length) sling on the 1st bolt off the ledge.
There are two pins in the final traverse, both look solid, but are hard to clip without potentially cross-loading the carabiner. The first is at the start, the last is just before the anchors and is not really needed. I placed a #2 Friend (#1 Camalot) in the middle of the traverse and was glad I had it.
The traverse really isn't that hard, and you can actually catch your breath about halfway across, but the pump factor is pretty high.
I agree with Adam, definitely pull the roof at the top to enjoy the view.