Just Another 5.14 (aka "Courtesy Spit")
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This is the rightmost route on the hillock where you find Purple and Green, up and right of the Anti-Phil proper. It wasn't put up in the smartest possible way, meaning fixed ropes were left dangling for quite a long time and a semi-incriminating 12-foot-long pry bar was left at the base of the route, but hopefully people will wise up a bit and realize that there is, in fact, a bolting ban in Rifle, at least for the time being.
That said, this is a pretty fun line, with some crack climbing on it. The large pillar/block below the finishing corner appears to be solid -- just make sure you unclip your rope from the low bolt on the left once you've clipped the first bolt in the corner, then flip your rope back right around the block. Tricky moves gain the anchors. This will clean up and be pretty fun.
15 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope.
|Comments on Just Another 5.14 (aka "Courtesy Spit")
Sep 15, 2008
The moniker in the new guide is "Another 5.14". A good juggy route that has cleaned up pretty well.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 17, 2012
I actually liked this route, but the large, ominous pillar at the top distracts from the quality. I was okay with the wandering nature of the climb, but that pillar needs to go or the anchor should be lower. You could also finish at the Dancing Pickle anchor and not have to deal with that death pillar. The rock on this route is good otherwise and it had some fun climbing on it.